Thread: world windsor jr and sr heads opinion

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If it were mine, I'd order the 5023 heads that have slightly smaller intake valves than the 5025 heads. With the smaller valve, you won't have to worry about re-cutting eyebrows into the piston crowns. I'd order 'em assembled. They come with springs that will tolerate 0.550" lift. You won't need that much lift unless you plan to race the car and if you plan to do that, you are looking at the wrong heads. The 5023 heads will work great on a street motor. Take 'em out of the box and bolt 'em on. You'll need 1.6:1 rocker arms for 3/8" studs. A word of caution: USE ONLY THE HEAD GASKET RECOMMENDED BY THE HEAD MANUFACTURER. The wrong gaskets will "Brinell" the aluminum. Google it and read up.

Resist all inclinations to use those fosdick Magnum CompCams roller rockers.
http://www.deezperformance.com/shop/...RockerArms.php
Comp got it bass ackwards. They used an old-school, OEM-style socket and ball arrangement at the trunnion. This "scrubbing" design contributes to high friction (robs horsepower) and high oil temperatures. They should have used roller bearings at the trunnion with a conventional non-roller tip. These rockers are worthless in my opinion. High-speed filming of roller tip rockers by famed cam grinder Racer Brown show the tip skidding across the tip of the valve. They don't roll, they skid because of insufficient mechanical couple. If the roller tips were about 1 1/8 inches or larger in diameter, they might effect a mechanical couple with the valve stem tip and do their job, but those tiny little rollers are a waste of metal and machining.

Use an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold mounting a 600 CFM carb of your choice.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7121/

Use long-tube, equal-length tuned headers, 1 5/8" primary diameter. Construct an "X" pipe after the collectors, before the mufflers. Run 2 1/8" pipes to the rear bumper.

There, you have my opinion.

thankx Tech,,I,too,will file that away,as one day,the faithful little 302w in the truck is gunna need a build,or replacement..Just wasnt sure on the heads..Now I am,ta very much..

Moved to new thread...

As HOSS said, the aluminum heads are worth an extra $300....Here's a re-sized photo if you want to edit your post and remove the H-U-G-E photo.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

As HOSS said, the aluminum heads are worth an extra $300....Here's a re-sized photo if you want to edit your post and remove the H-U-G-E photo.

i`m trying ... i dont know how .. it wont let me edit it away

Check before you order the heads. I bought the E Street heads and had to return them immediately because I found out they are for flat tappet cams only. I then ordered the Performer RPM heads that Edelbrock said would work with my roller cam engine.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Check before you order the heads. I bought the E Street heads and had to return them immediately because I found out they are for flat tappet cams only. I then ordered the Performer RPM heads that Edelbrock said would work with my roller cam engine.

Don

Thanks Don, that's why I raised the question of valve springs on the DynoSim thread.