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	02-07-2008 04:25 PM #1
 I am not sure about what cam to use, but I figured on keeping the compression ratio in the 8:1 - 8.5:1 range. I have heard that this is an ideal range for a blown engine. Do you have any suggestions on a camshaft?
 
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	02-07-2008 05:09 PM #2
 I would either run a cam that has 112 or 114 lobe seperation. Originally Posted by V8juggernaut Originally Posted by V8juggernaut
 You would need to run 10 degree's more exhaust duration.
 
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	02-08-2008 01:34 PM #3
 just fill the block part way and go ahve fun with it. if it blows salvage the internals and start over  
 
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	02-09-2008 02:41 PM #4
 No way I would consider that much boost on a stock Windsor block!!!! Investing a lot of money that a lot of which is going to get blown out the side when the block breaks!!!!!! Much as I love my Blue Ovals, I wouldn't consider even putting a blower on anything other then one of the SVT blocks....even then I'm not sure you could run enough boost without risking a major blow up to justify the expense.... The blocks are just way too week on the bottom end, if you go with the splayed caps and or main cap supports then it will split right down the valley......Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today! 
 Carroll Shelby
 
 Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!! 
 
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	02-09-2008 02:58 PM #5
 What Dave says here times two. Originally Posted by Dave Severson Originally Posted by Dave Severson
 Been there done that to many times.
 
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	02-09-2008 07:12 PM #6
 well you guys can stick with your blue ovals. i'll stick with my bow ties. a buddy of mine built a mustang II cobra 4 banger car into a 302 car by changing a bunch of parts and alot of $$$ where gm just drop in a V8 with a th350 and go, even the 7.5 rearends hold up to V8 abuse.Derek Doble 
 
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	02-09-2008 07:19 PM #7
 The 7.5 rear ends might hold up a little while, but as soon as you make that car "hook" you may just shove the spider gears through the rear cover. Originally Posted by speedy55779 Originally Posted by speedy55779
 We us to break these 7.5 ring gears with about 375 lbs. of torque and a 9 inch wide slick.
 
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	02-09-2008 07:24 PM #8
 seen many break not that hot of a rear end Originally Posted by erik erikson Originally Posted by erik erikson not chevy best the old 10 bolt is much better not chevy best the old 10 bolt is much betterLast edited by pat mccarthy; 02-09-2008 at 07:27 PM. Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip 
 
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	02-09-2008 07:28 PM #9
 I think I broke one I had in a 86 Camaro now that I think about it. Originally Posted by pat mccarthy Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
 
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	02-09-2008 07:42 PM #10
 Erik you would know when you break one ! The Tow bill is a good reminder Originally Posted by erik erikson Originally Posted by erik erikson There is a guy at the track with a FORD 8.8 rear end . But the COOL thing it's in a 1984 G body Monte Carlo with a SB Chevy 383 . There is a guy at the track with a FORD 8.8 rear end . But the COOL thing it's in a 1984 G body Monte Carlo with a SB Chevy 383 .
 
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	02-09-2008 07:41 PM #11
 My only experience with a supercharger was on a tiny 1300 cc VW with a positive displacement vane-type Judson compressor. So far nobody has said anything about heat. For a 10-12 second run in the quarter mile this may be the least of worries but reading the original beginning of this thread he says only occasional drag use with probably a street cruiser use most of the time. Adding 30% more fuel-air mixture means 30% more heat. In my case it meant a melted piston while on a trip from Virginia to Florida and two trips to emergency garage service to get home. The first stop was to replace the melted piston but the VW mechanic did us a favor by washing down the engine with Varsol. The second stop was about 90 miles up the road when the combination of engine heat and Varsol melted the wiring loom. Amazingly the second stop at another VW agency only cost us $12 for the complete engine wiring loom (plus meals and another night's lodging!) For regular running of a supercharged engine probably lower psi is adviseable for longer engine life and forged pistons would seem to be a good idea but don't forget provision for extra cooling too!
 
 Don Shillady
 Retired Scientist/teen rodderLast edited by Don Shillady; 02-09-2008 at 07:52 PM. 
 
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	02-09-2008 10:32 PM #12
 It is what it is ! Twin Turbos ? You still need the HD 302 block . You can build one of the 5.0 GT40 long blocks to make good power for a street / strip build with one carb . And yes it will Smoke the tires .  
 
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	02-09-2008 11:59 PM #13
 I know what you mean Stovens, I have the typical hot rodder's dilemma: I want the "go", but my budget is low.
 
 I have found a reasonably priced twin turbo setup that might be cool. But by the sounds of things, I probably won't be able to use my "stock" block for that either. I don't mind doing mods to the engine to be able to run either one of these (blower or turbos), but apparently, my block won't handle it. Guess I won't get my HP fix until I win the lottery.
 
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	02-10-2008 12:40 AM #14
 Just how much are the custom blocks?"  "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve. "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
 
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	02-10-2008 02:16 AM #15
 A new HD Bare block is around $2200 to $2400 Bucks . I would check your local Craigs list and E Bay for a HD block . With all them Fox Mustang 5.0 guys . There must be some good HD used blocks or even short blocks . Originally Posted by stovens Originally Posted by stovens
 






 
		
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