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Thread: Newly rebuilt fe390 still smoking after intake redo. Leak Down Test? Wrong pcv valve
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Oh yes. Totally aware of that. THey are in the proper location. I'm trying to find a parts store today that I can get a Leak Down Gauge set from. Hoping that I can hear some results and narrow this down.

  2. #32
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Do you have a Harbor Freight by you ? If so, they have this one...

    Cylinder Leak-Down Tester

    Attachment 67326
    Last edited by DennyW; 04-11-2017 at 11:14 AM.

  3. #33
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    That's weird. I just got back from there with it, thanks. Going to do some testing and I'll be back shortly with the results.

  4. #34
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Crap. I can't use this kit. There is no adapter for the larger spark plug holes that these FE motors have.

  5. #35
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I need a kit with an 18mm adapter. The mystery continues.

  6. #36
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    Since you have Ford oem adjustable rockers---------------is your block even drilled for the lifter galleys??? and/or the plugs in the galley??????

  7. #37
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by stotzbotz View Post
    Crap. I can't use this kit. There is no adapter for the larger spark plug holes that these FE motors have.
    Look close. That hose with the quick disconnect should be the 18mm. Then, you have the other 2 adapters that screw onto that hose.

  8. #38
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    No that isn't an 18mm. I am going to try and use the hose off of my compression tester by taking out the valve stem. As soon as I find my stem remover I'm hoping it's removable. If not I'm going to need to order a kit off of Ebay. As for the lifter galley question, I have no idea. This engine was built by someone who raced cars and built many motors so hopefully they had this taken care of.

  9. #39
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    OK so I did the leak down test. The piston on problem child #6 may have gone down an 1/8 of an inch from being TDC but I'm thinking that would not have mattered. To my horror i am hearing air coming out of my dipstick tube and valve cover breather hole. The gauge was still showing about 35 and in the low range. What would be my next move? A bad ring seems like my problem or maybe this particular cylinder just hasn't seated yet or has some glazing on the cylinder wall. The thought of having to break this engine down again is at the bottom of my list. Do I have any other options at this point other than to keep driving it and see if it clears up?I wasn't sure if there was a way to tell if it's a ring issue or a cylinder issue.

  10. #40
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    What clearance are you using for valve settings?

    Seems to me that where your at not wanting to take the engine down-Bon Ami over the venture that feeds the #6---------


    ALSO--------change that spring set up on your throttle linkage and also move any wires/ sensor leads from that area because you are flirting with a stuck open throttle situation---------
    Last edited by jerry clayton; 04-12-2017 at 11:31 AM.
    NTFDAY likes this.

  11. #41
    stotzbotz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I just wanted to add that I took readings from the other cylinders on the driver's side. #7 and #8 cylinders were showing about 25% loss which is pretty good but what's puzzling is #5 cylinder showed only 22% loss and there was also air coming through the dipstick tube. Maybe because it's the cylinder closest to the tube. I did another test on 6 and still get 35% loss with just air coming from the dipstick tube and breather hole. I understand that I should be getting some air through these 2 places to some degree if the valves are doing their job and sealing properly. The air has to escape through the tube and breather hole I would think as there is going to be some loss of air no matter what. The Bon Ami idea is starting to look better. I think that this test is at least showing that my valves are all working and sealing properly. I was told by the previous owner who built the engine to set the valves at 18 intake and 20 exhaust.

  12. #42
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    Do yourself a favor. It's about 165 miles from Tallahassee to Jacksonville. Tomorrow morning fill your car with gas, and hit the road east, preferably on something like FL 90 vs I10 - stay off of the interstate highway. As you drive through the countryside, vary your speed, not sticking to a set speed limit, and as you leave the little towns and have legal freedom, accelerate briskly up to the speed limit and then continue varying speeds. Go on through Jacksonville to the coast, maybe down to St Augustine, and find a nice spot to have lunch by the ocean. After a nice lunch, reverse direction and head home, following the same pattern. Friday when you get up, fill the tank and hit the road again, but maybe head down FL 27 to Tampa, following the same pattern of varying speeds, but include a few hard runs at WOT as you leave towns and get up to the speed limit. It's about 275 miles to Tampa, so enjoy a late lunch and head home, then maybe enjoy dinner along the way home. On Saturday start it up and take it out for a cruise, and see how your oil smoke is doing. If you're still totally focused on a little bit of smoke, use the Bon Ami trick and if that doesn't work sell the car and buy something that makes you happy. Life's too short to continue the way you're going.
    Last edited by rspears; 04-12-2017 at 03:29 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  13. #43
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    I would personally at this point (even earlier) to remove engine and go thru it completely. New rings, bearings, cam bearings, recond rods , correct bolts, torque plate hone cylinders ( possibly to bigger size) align hone, deck block square to crank bore----- looks like in pics you have GT or CJ headers with 4 bolt flange and all bolts don't even look fully engage plus some discoloration on some parts of head and bolts, throttle pull needs to be redone----
    dstiebs1 likes this.

  14. #44
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    Another tip------since you have pretty well proven that its rings sealing, plus other areas of questionable work---------an method of rapid ring seating used by pro stock racers back in early 70s--------put the rear end up on jackstands ( some that will not fall over) and run the engine up thru the rpms a few times--------while applying the brakes!!!!!!!!!!!! this will allow you to put a controlled load on the engine while its reving up----you will have to watch brake temps back there so maybe can only do 2 or 3 before cooling off-----and this is a strong load , not just dragging the brakes a little-------

  15. #45
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    All I've heard you complain about is a little smoke from one side, and you've confirmed with the leak down test that your rings aren't seated fully. Sure, you can tear it down and start over, but if it were in my garage I'd be taking it out and driving the P!SS out of it for the summer, and if it's still smoking in September buy a new engine from one of the reputable FE specialists out there and start again when it warms up. Oh, forgot you're in Tallahassee - drive it until it quits smoking, or you get sick of it and then buy the new, fully assembled and tested engine.
    Sorry, but the answer just seems so logical to me. I'm done, and won't post here again.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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