Thread: Starting problem

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I believe there is a couple differant starter for the 390's.
I know there are three differant ones for the Clevelands,
because I had the same problem, and the wrong starter.
Kurt

Is that thin metal block plate in place between the engine and bellhousing? If it isn't there you will never get the starter to engage properly. Sometimes people forget to reinstall it when they pull the transmission.

Don

Originally Posted by Louey

With the so called rebuilt starters from the parts store, you have to check the starter end play. If it clunks back and forth, they did not shim the end play correctly. So when you engage the starter, the armature moves back, and you get a weak engagement. If the metal plate is left off, all that will do is allow the starter to engage deeper into the ring gear teeth. You need to also check with the cover off, and see what the total engagement is. Hope this helps a little.

The real purpose of the metal plate on Fords is to index the starter the correct distance from the crank centerline. If it is not in place, or is damaged so that the starter won't fit in straight and snug, the starter will not be located properly. Some folks call these plates a shim or torque plate also. But they actually were meant to locate the starter. If you inspect closely the original bolts Ford used to bolt in the starter, you'll notice they don't "fill" the hole like a "normal" bolt. These bolts were meant to allow some alignment space under the washer. And yes. always check the length of the starter drive to ensure complete engagment. Hope it helps.

Originally Posted by Louey

This was intended to clarify the engagement depth on the ring gear teeth. If the metal plate is left off, all that will do is allow the starter to engage deeper into the ring gear teeth.
How ever, the starter can be mounted without the plate, as long as you check the engagement clearance. Not the ideal way to do it though.

Completely WRONG! Leave that plate out and it's a crap shoot as to having the starter the correct distance from the center of the crankshaft! Also if it's bent / twisted / damaged it may prevent proper placement of the starter.

Agree with you on checking the starter drive engagment arm for damage / wear.

Originally Posted by Louey

Your going a little to deep on this aren't you?

Your throwing a lot of if's in there. Like what if the sun is shining, or maybe if it was raining, or freezing out, would this make a difference.
The main point is, check the clearance between the flywheel and starter. How far does the engagement go between the two pieces ? That is what puts it at the right spot on the flywheel, ring gear teeth.

if it's bent / twisted / damaged it may prevent proper placement of the starter.

If that's the case, you haven't done the checks properly, and a new one is required. I've had them chew the gear teeth up, when everything was supposed to be right. The starter engagement depth was usually the problem. That's why the get half the teeth chewed off, in 4 places.

I don't think so. I wasn't the one saying the plate don't matter. It absolutely does! All I was trying to say was check the plate for damage as it sets the distance away from the crank. And I also agreed with you on verifying starter drive tooth engagement. That was it! I also agree that he should verify the tooth count on the flywheel and make sure he's gotten the correct starter for that flywheel he's using.

And I never ever mentioned the weather!