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Thread: FE Intake Oil Leak -- End Gaskets or Not?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    vara4's Avatar
    vara4 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Pahrump
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1947 International Pick Up
    Posts
    3,188

    I agree with Dave in both cases I've always done mine the same way.
    I also did my big block 440 dodges like that as well even with the
    Valley oil pan, But I also used a tack spray with that on the dodge.
    But if you were not real careful that dodge would leak in the corners too.
    No slidding around, drop the intake straite down or you had problems with it.
    Kurt

  2. #2
    jawarner is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Emmett
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    14

    Guys, thanks for all the input on this.

    I decided I might as well bite the bullet and tear it down. Upon removing the manifold, I saw a pin hole sized void in the RTV close to the front right corner where the leak was coming from. I don't know if this was an air pocket in the RTV when I applied it or it was caused by oil pressure at the spot. I tend to think it was an air pocket because the engine only had about 4 hours on it since installing. I measured the compressed thickness of the RTV and it was less than 1/8 inch. A 1/4 inch bead of that stuff leaves a lot of room for air pockets and other inconsistencies.

    I think I'll go with a combination of the input provided here. I am going to use the cork gaskets applied with contact cement. While they may break down over time, I am hoping it is longer than 4 hours. I am leaning toward using the "Right Stuff" in the corners and maybe a thin film on top of the cork. I've also been told to use a thin film of sealant around the coolant ports on the heads/manifold.

    Any other reassembly advice on the top end of an FE motor is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all the input!

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