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Thread: 429 to a 501 build lots i need to know
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    71mach1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    429 to a 501 build lots i need to know

     



    Quick couple of questions for you guys out there I am doing a 501 stroker build and trying to get it around 600hp n/a. Is it possible to do this with running pump gas and still getting some what decent gas mileage? also what type of set up would i need besides the stroker kit, I've been messing around with desktop dyno and I can't get it over 450hp. I do want to go with aluminum heads but don't know what type of cam lifters pushrods ect.... I am kind of new to the building and performance scene any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you!

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    OK, you want to run on pump gas. Forget about fuel mileage, it that's important to you, build a Geo Metro 1 litre. What is the vehicle? Will you have to deal with emissions? What rear gear? What transmission? What torque converter? Or will it be manual trans?. How much will it weigh? Will you tow with it? Will you off-road with it? The more detailed you can be, the better information you will get.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #3
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've ran the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads on a 501 and am still very pleased with them! In a 2600 pound tube chassis car with a 'glide and a custom grind Comp cam (solid roller) it does 500 torque to the wheels! However, this is at 12.5:1 CR and running E-85 fuel. Couldn't do that CR with pump gas, about 9.5 or 10.0:1 CR would be tops, and compression is horsepower! As for the gas mileage, it would get some and it wouldn't be good, maybe 8 or 9 mpg when you build a big block to get to the 600 level. The rest of our 501 is a port matched single plane intake, 1050 Dominator carb, MSD pro Billet distributor and MSD 7 box, so it's good power, but spendy to put together. The best news on the 501 is that it's ready to start it's 5th season in a bracket car, only problem with the engine is that it likes to break oil pumps! Other then that, only a couple sets of valve springs have been the extent of annual maintenance!

    If you're doing this for a street car, 450 hp is a lot more doable and is still more then enough power to blow the tires off on anything but the cleanest streets! Less power in a light (under 3,000 lbs) car with good gears (3.70's are nice on the street), good suspension, and good tires will be a much more driveable car that has plenty of power that can be acutally hooked up on the street with street tires!!! There's a lot more to this go fast on the street stuff then just a big hp number, takes a complete "package" to have a car that works good in is still in the driveable level on power.... Many newbs start with a big #'s engine, then can't do anything with it cuz the rest of the car just isn't up to the task of applying the power!!!!
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  4. #4
    71mach1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    71 mach 1 mustang, 9 inch rear end with 3.89 gears and detroit locker, c6 trans with b&m shift kit 3 speed, stall unknown I've got the rear leafs with two extra leafs on each side and monroe air shocks.

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    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    450 would be plenty of power on the street without some extensive suspension mods to the rear of the car...
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71mach1 View Post
    Quick couple of questions for you guys out there I am doing a 501 stroker build and trying to get it around 600hp n/a. Is it possible to do this with running pump gas and still getting some what decent gas mileage? . I do want to go with aluminum heads but don't know what type of cam lifters pushrods ect... thank you!
    Yes it is possible but the valve train would be very much like that of a racing engine and would require regular valve seat touch-ups and valve spring changes. Further, the peak power would arrive via a steep curve and the engine would have less streetability than if you build the engine for, say, 500 hp and 500 torque.

    If you have not yet driven a Ford 460 stroker then you will be amazed at the brute power over a wide rpm range. Try not to set your heart on a "magic number" such as a peak horsepower number but instead build an engine combination that delivers power in a manner that allows the car to perform as you wish. Peak power means little in getting the car down the track (or from light-to-light) as opposed to building for usable power. Nothing is worse than claiming a peak power number and then having a lesser engine with less peak power (but more overall power) kick your you-know-what in a race.

    Paul

    429/460 Engine Fanatic

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