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Thread: What year is my flathead?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    '46-'48. 3.1875" bore, 3.750" stroke, 239 c.i., 6.8:1 static c.r., 100 hp @3,600 r's. Removeable, hardened valve seat inserts. With heads off, check center water jacket holes in the block. Top hole should be triangular, center and bottom holes should be round.

    Some 59A blocks were sold as replacement engines for pre-war 221" cars and had a 3.0625" bore.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 04-23-2007 at 08:10 PM.
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  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Richard: Is that a truck tranny with the rod running down the side of the shifter?


    Don

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itoldyouso
    Richard: Is that a truck tranny with the rod running down the side of the shifter?


    Don
    Not sure about that Don.
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  4. #4
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Don't worry about breaking the studs, they're better than grade 8 bolts. The problem might come when they are stuck in the heads, preventing lifting the head when the nuts are off. Sometimes you have to pull all the studs to get 'em off.
    The 59A is the best flattie, with the possible exception of the Merc 255. When you get the heads off check real close for cracks. Don't worry about the one from the center water hole to the adjacent stud hole,they all do that and it doesn't matter. Any cracks in the valve seat area and cylinder walls do, though, and if the exhaust ports or valley have cracks, it's toast.
    That's a truck 4-speed. That's maybe a good thing, because trucks were kept on the road longer than flathead cars, so the rebuild may be relatively recent. Rebuilders didn't mess with cracked blocks, so the chances are better that it's a goodie.

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