What year is my flathead?

Well, I just bought a motor/tranny and was told it was a 37, but it has 24 studs not 21. The rear of the block is marked "59" with a small"A" stamped in below the 59. The serial number on the transmission(assuming it is the original) is *BBI8-46I306*. The style of the heads are the 38-48 with center water outlets. It has a three bolt distributor with the side exit wires(4 per side). The tranny also has something I have not seen before, A rod along side the shifter that you pull up, I am guessing for reverse?
Also the motor was rebuilt by a Ford authorized reconditioner called Bison Mfg in Montana I believe. It seems to be in real good shape so far, I pulled the clutch of and the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate are excellent, The oil pan is off and all looks good below. I have yet to pull the heads as I am soaking the nuts to prevent breaking any studs off.
Any help on identifying the exact year would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Ralph

'46-'48. 3.1875" bore, 3.750" stroke, 239 c.i., 6.8:1 static c.r., 100 hp @3,600 r's. Removeable, hardened valve seat inserts. With heads off, check center water jacket holes in the block. Top hole should be triangular, center and bottom holes should be round.

Some 59A blocks were sold as replacement engines for pre-war 221" cars and had a 3.0625" bore.

Richard: Is that a truck tranny with the rod running down the side of the shifter?


Don

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Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Richard: Is that a truck tranny with the rod running down the side of the shifter?


Don

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Not sure about that Don. :eek:

Don't worry about breaking the studs, they're better than grade 8 bolts. The problem might come when they are stuck in the heads, preventing lifting the head when the nuts are off. Sometimes you have to pull all the studs to get 'em off.
The 59A is the best flattie, with the possible exception of the Merc 255. When you get the heads off check real close for cracks. Don't worry about the one from the center water hole to the adjacent stud hole,they all do that and it doesn't matter. Any cracks in the valve seat area and cylinder walls do, though, and if the exhaust ports or valley have cracks, it's toast.
That's a truck 4-speed. That's maybe a good thing, because trucks were kept on the road longer than flathead cars, so the rebuild may be relatively recent. Rebuilders didn't mess with cracked blocks, so the chances are better that it's a goodie.

Thanks for all the info, I was thinking about that rod on the shifter, and I forgot to mention there is also a small round device(a solenoid maybe) on the drivers side of the tranny. I have not looked at it too close yet and the tranny is still covered in grime.
Could it have an overdrive? Or be set up for a two speed rear axle?

More info on the motor. I got the heads off OK, there is no rust in the cylinders, only a light black coating on valves and head(normal for a running motor), Pistons are .040 and look good, No ridge at the top of cylinder. Valves are marked ford 015 and ford "R" U.S.A.IS. There is only one crack that I can see and that is between the center small water hole and stud just as R Pope described. I think I might be able to have it cleaned, buy new bearings and a set of rings and gaskets, hone it out and put it back together.

Never seen a Ford floor shift 3-speed with OD. A solenoid on the trans would seem to point to one, though. Can you post a photo?

Yes, but not till next week, the wife is out of town and took the camera. I'll post it as soon as I can.