Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
Are your carbs 3 or 4 bolt base and what intake manifold do you have--I'm assuming either a Fenton or Edelbrock aluminum
In those years lots of confusion about firing orders as Ford numbered there cylinders different from GM and Mopar plus Ford change order when FE engines came out in 1958.

Also, these engines had very poor top end oiling system and of course no top oil no drainback to lube cam lifters-your engine with new oil and inadeque top end oil flow could of wiped a cam lobe/lifter or a few of them--if you can run it with valve covers removed look to see that the push rods are rotating/spinning-if not probably bad cam lobe/lifter. The lifters (tappets) can only be removed with the cam out of the block so if you do get involved with this carefully lay every thing out in order so if you find a damaged part you can look at other pieces for same location.

Also, if you ever have the timing cover off to replace chain, gears, cam------it doesn't go back on with the gear marks aligned-they get set so theres 12 pins /links in the chain between the marks-timing chains back in THOSE DAYS had 2 links that were shinier/marked for this.

These engines had umbrella valve stem seals and they dried up deteriated with time and came apart into coffee ground looking pieces which plugged up oil return holes and eventually the oil pump screen.
They're all 3 bolts. And an Edelbrock manifold.


Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
I saw that the op was on line for a while but no post?????? or is his posts being delayed until moderator can approve them??? Might make this a drawn out project---------

Of course tho he is near Pearl Harbor and my old rear engine dragster is near there so maybe I'll just wander over and take a look see-------
Yeah, I don't know why that is? Anti-spam measure?
EDIT: Wierd. I made another post earlier but that one said it required mod approval. Strange!~

Quote Originally Posted by NTFDAY View Post
I'd venture to say that by letting the tank run dry you put a lot of crud into the fuel system. I would pull the tank and flush it out and blow out the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump. Replace any and all fuel filters and after you get it running again you might have to replace them a couple of more times.
Rebuilding the carbs is not that involved as long as they are cleaned thoroughly and all of the passages are blown out with compressed air.
Tuning them is another story as they should be balanced.
I finished the rebuild(s) just today. As soon as I get a good time slot at night I'm going to reinstall them (my building doesn't really allow car work in the parking structure, so I always do work at 2AM to avoid detection, lol). I'm hoping the tuning is harder in my mind than it really will be IRL, cause I'm actually rather concerned the thing wont start properly or will run like crap when I try.