Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Unknown cam?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 31 to 39 of 39
  1. #31
    mooneye777's Avatar
    mooneye777 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    dayton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1948 ford anglia
    Posts
    978

    I dont know why you could'nt, but I am almost sure you are not supposed to. It could be maybe because the short duration on a hydraulic cam is too steep of a climb and rapid step down for a solid lifter. The hydraulic spring might compensate for this quick action. I am only speculating now though, just letting my common sence work a bit, and sometimes thats a stretch. That is a good question I think. I am thinking with my solid roller for example, lash is set at .018 and .022, thats not much play for the quick and rapid lobe to lifter movement required especialy at 7000 RPM. remember just talking out my azz at this point.


    Live everyday like it were your last, someday it will be.

  2. #32
    glennsexton's Avatar
    glennsexton is offline CHR Member/Contributor CHR Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tigard
    Car Year, Make, Model: 63 Nova SS
    Posts
    2,505

    You may have a Comp Cams XE268H. Follow this link and then call/email these guys for some more help in identification.

    http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...x?csid=93&sb=2

    While I have never used this cam, specifications look pretty good for a TPI small block.

  3. #33
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eston
    Posts
    2,270

    A solid lifter cam has a take-up ramp that slowly eases the lifter up until the clearance is gone. If you put hydraulic lifters on one, the valve starts opening way too soon, and since it only opens the amount that the clearance is supposed to be, the valves will burn out prematurely and the engine will run poorly at idle due to the too-long duration.

  4. #34
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Macomb
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
    Posts
    1,593

    FWIW, you can run solid lifters with a hydraulic cam but not the other way around. If you do run solid lifters with a hydraulic cam, you set the tappets at .003-.004. I know, because back in the 1960's I did it on the 283 I built for my '59 Impala. This was on the advice of the machinist that worked with me on the engine. I never had any problems with it.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  5. #35
    SSsuperdave is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Fe
    Car Year, Make, Model: 2000 SS Camaro
    Posts
    10

    So would it be safe to say that solid lifters would be the best to run if I can't find out whether it's a hyd or solid? Seems to me that a solid would follow the profile regardless of what it is whereas a hydrolic could possibly collapse because a solid profile may be too steep for the hydrolic valving action of the lifter.? I did check it with a degree wheel and dial indicator and it comes out to 230/230@480/480 w108 ICL. I know it's an Erson brand and I found a cam with the same specs on their website.! Also, my dad had a brand new, still in the box Comp cam, with card and all, and I put it in and checked the same way I'd been checking the other and it came out to exactaly what the card showed! I feel confident with my measurements, since I have a known cam to compare against now. A larger degree wheel would be nice too, since the 11" one I'm using now is kinda, eh, but it works. Anyone know what a cam like this would be good for? Still curious about the lifters though. Thanks for all the replys!

  6. #36
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Macomb
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
    Posts
    1,593

    If you know it is an Erson cam, call them and give them your specs. Chances are they can tell you whether if it is for hydraulic or solid lifters. And make sure your valve springs are matched to the cam. The wrong springs can cause cam failure or valve float. If in doubt, buy new ones from Erson. Good luck.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  7. #37
    SSsuperdave is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Santa Fe
    Car Year, Make, Model: 2000 SS Camaro
    Posts
    10

    Just to really get ya'll riled up, the junkyard motor I'm using this cam is a factory roller block! What a waste, huh?

  8. #38
    Sinister's Avatar
    Sinister is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Bon Aqua
    Car Year, Make, Model: 76 camaro
    Posts
    303

    Quote Originally Posted by SSsuperdave
    Just to really get ya'll riled up, the junkyard motor I'm using this cam is a factory roller block! What a waste, huh?
    That statement might stir up a hornets nest!
    I ain't dumb, I just ain't been showed a whole lot!

  9. #39
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Quote Originally Posted by SSsuperdave
    Just to really get ya'll riled up, the junkyard motor I'm using this cam is a factory roller block! What a waste, huh?
    You should be tied to a pole and caned.

    Put the cam back in the block and check the intake closing point at zero lift and 0.050" tappet lift. That will tell you what static compression ratio you need to use in the motor to get the proper dynamic compression ratio in order to have a motor or not have a motor.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 10-24-2008 at 04:22 PM.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

Reply To Thread
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink