Thread: Setting initial timing on 350 with no vacuum

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just pull back just before the pistons melt in to the oil pan if you have 10 on the crank and 26 in the dist then its 36. or 12 on the crank and 24 is 36 good place to start go to lighter springs to get it all in at 3000 or lower 2500. this works for me and have set up many this way this works i would not run 40 on it should not need that much . if you have a MSD they are very easy to do .what do you have ?you can pull 50 but will help around town but you do not need it under aload

Is the answer here?

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...ghlight=timing

Pat

Originally Posted by DennyW

That does look familiar, doesn't it ??

why yes it do hey denny nice head lights

Originally Posted by HemiTCoupe

Is the answer here?

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...ghlight=timing

Pat

Could I break in and ask a quick question? I get the impression from that linked thread above that a mechanical advance distributor is not recommended for the street, do you guys agree with that? I have an Accel 51000 series electronic (mechanical) distributor and I'm wondering if I'd be better off with a vacuum advance?

Also with a mechanical distributor should the numbers (i.e. advanced be the same) as on a vacuum advance (with the vacuum plugged)?

Thanks

Just trying to get all the help I can I am going to go with the consensus and crank down the initial back to around 12 so that I have a total of around 36. In the past I have found that the guys on the Chevelle forum know Chevelles but you guys know more about engines.

Originally Posted by Eliot Ness

Could I break in and ask a quick question? I get the impression from that linked thread above that a mechanical advance distributor is not recommended for the street, do you guys agree with that? I have an Accel 51000 series electronic (mechanical) distributor and I'm wondering if I'd be better off with a vacuum advance?

Also with a mechanical distributor should the numbers (i.e. advanced be the same) as on a vacuum advance (with the vacuum plugged)?

Thanks

I think that is the case... you're mechanical curve should remain the same, the vac advance just puts more in when you have a light load. This helps fuel efficiency tremendously, also helps to run cooler. I run a mech only distributor and my road mileage is horrible (6-7mpg if I'm lucky). I might swap back to a vac advance and just disconnect the vac on race day... I'm slow to do it because I spent good money on the distributor I have now. The right answer for me is to get a trailer

-Chris

I seem to remember that the vacume on a ford was adjustable with a allen wrench thru the inside of the nipple on the dist vacume diaphram---but remember I'm getting old--what were we talking about?

Jerry