Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Timing
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    White Sands is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Navarre
    Car Year, Make, Model: 79 Camaro
    Posts
    6

    Timing

     



    Hi, this is my first post. I usually get the info I need by reading previous posts but need help. I have a 383 stroker with a Mallory Unilite with vacuum advance. I unplugged the vacuum advance and set the total timing to 38 degrees at 3000 rpm. This caused the initial timing to be 16 degrees. When I plug the vacuum advance back in the initial timing jumped to 39 degrees. Is the vacuum advance can adjustable on these distributors? What should I set it to? How do I set it? I only intend to drag race this engine. Would mechanical advance only be better? Also what would be better, the vacuum port above or below the throttle blades? I have an Edelbrock 750 cfm on it.

    Thanks in advance for any help.

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Moving the vacuum advance line to ported vacuum above the throttle blades will drop the advance at idle back to reality. If this is a race-only motor, you won't need vacuum advance, it's for fuel economy at high manifold vacuum (cruising).

    Make a pass with it in both carb positions and without it at all. That'll tell the tale.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #3
    White Sands is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Navarre
    Car Year, Make, Model: 79 Camaro
    Posts
    6

    Thanks for the reply. I had it below the blades and it has 15 psi at idle, which shocked me. I moved it up to the port above the blades since then. Is it ok to not hook up the vacuum can? I am considering a different distibutor.

  4. #4
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    "Is it ok to not hook up the vacuum can?"

    Yep, just plug the ported and manifold connections at the carb and use a rubber boot on the can to keep dirt and trash out in case you want to use it later. Like I said, though, if street-driven, mileage will suffer.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  5. #5
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
    C9x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N/W Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: Deuce Highboy roadster
    Posts
    1,174

    Originally posted by techinspector1
    Moving the vacuum advance line to ported vacuum above the throttle blades will drop the advance at idle back to reality. If this is a race-only motor, you won't need vacuum advance, it's for fuel economy at high manifold vacuum (cruising).

    Make a pass with it in both carb positions and without it at all. That'll tell the tale.


    Since vacuum levels drop to zero or near zero at full throttle, it doesn't make any difference where vacuum is sourced from.

    The dragstrip passes should be virtually identical regardless of where the vacuum can gets it's vacuum.
    C9

  6. #6
    dr_bowtie's Avatar
    dr_bowtie is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Elkhart
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1957 chevy Belair
    Posts
    316

    C9x.....

    wrong answer......

    hook a vacuum gauge to full then ported vacuum and see what you get...

    One will have vacuum at idle then decrease when quickly opening the throttle....

    while the other will have no vacuum at idle and increase while opening the throttle....

  7. #7
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
    C9x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N/W Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: Deuce Highboy roadster
    Posts
    1,174

    Originally posted by dr_bowtie
    C9x.....

    wrong answer......

    hook a vacuum gauge to full then ported vacuum and see what you get...

    One will have vacuum at idle then decrease when quickly opening the throttle....

    while the other will have no vacuum at idle and increase while opening the throttle....


    The answer I gave is correct.

    Running a fairly well matched pair of vacuum gauges - which I've done - on an engine shows zero or near zero vacuum from both ported and manifold vacuum when the throttle is wide open.

    Part throttle operation does show differences, but wide open throttle shows zero regardless of vacuum source.
    C9

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink