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Thread: summit racing brand cam kit
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    oldschool68cam's Avatar
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    summit racing brand cam kit

     



    any one useing a summit racing brand cam kit from summit ? heard any info ? i was looking at the 224/224 465/465

  2. #2
    oldschool68cam's Avatar
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    no info ?

  3. #3
    The F.N.G.'s Avatar
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    While I'm guilty of buying stuff from summit I stay away from their "House brand" parts. It's a moral thing for me, I just don't want to buy something that is a nearly exact replica of a part made by a "regular" parts company.


    In essence what Summit does is find a part that is selling quickly. They then copy the part as closely as they can and sell it under their brand for slightly less money. Thus, they are stealing the engineering from their parts suppliers. That practice leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

    Abe
    Technology is the answer.

  4. #4
    oldschool68cam's Avatar
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    Originally posted by The F.N.G.



    In essence what Summit does is find a part that is selling quickly. They then copy the part as closely as they can and sell it under their brand for slightly less money. Thus, they are stealing the engineering from their parts suppliers. That practice leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

    Abe
    that doesn't bother me,I was wondering about the quality since I am not using a degree wheel.I don't want to put it in and not beable to time it.

  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Try them, If you think about it there probably manufactured by edlebrock or holley or Crane. there only 79.99 so give it a try.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  6. #6
    BlueDSM's Avatar
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    Well, the quality of the materials is probably decent, but I would be more worried about the fact that the grind itself is pretty crappy.

    You have an advertised duration of 282, and an 0.050 of only 224, which means that it has a bad ramp angle (slower valve action) and its basically bleeding off compression = loss of power.

    My buddy ran one of these generic cams (PAW makes the same one) in his '79 350 Camaro a few years back when we didn't know any better, and it was really crappy, no torque.

    Spend a little extra and get a "tighter" cam with less of a difference between the .050 and the advertised, which means it has a faster valve action - the valve gets to max lift faster, and closes faster; therefore there is no unneccesary loss of compression.

    Comp Cams Xtreme energy makes 2 that would be better:

    XE268H: 268/280, 224/230, .477"/.480" lift.
    XE274H: 274/286, 230/236, .487"/.490" lift

    I have first hand experience with the XE268, it makes really good torque and has a nice sound. Dies around 5700 rpm.

  7. #7
    BlueDSM's Avatar
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    Hmm... Well, maybe I mis-understood what I read, but I thought that theres more overlap when you have that much total duration, which bleeds off compression. Isn't that why you need more compression in order to run a large cam?

    Wouldn't the decreased time to maximum lift help increase actual compression because more air is allowed to flow in for the same given total duration?
    Like if we have two 282 cams, one with 224@.050, and the other with 240@.050... The latter has more time above .050 tappet lift, and thus has a larger "hole" open longer which allows more air in to build more compression.

    Or am I off by a lot?

    Is it only the intake valve's action and lobe seperation that can potentially affect compression?
    Last edited by BlueDSM; 06-03-2004 at 10:38 PM.

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    I think Blue was refering to overlap, and if so I agree with him as far as losing some of the compression stroke due to the valves both being open as the piston starts back up during overlap- but the 282 cam is going to require some extra head work to advoid spring bind or your gonna break some I promise. I found out the hard way TWICE! I guess when your dumb you gotta be tough.
    I pulled the second mushroomed cam out & went to the 268 he from Crane. My low end torque went up thru the roof & she pulls right thru 7k.
    Now you need to give us a little more information on your set-up before we can help you with your question, what do you want the engine to do? The set-up for power is different than that of a torque set-up.
    If your putting that cam in a stock engine than it's going to fall flat. It requires more compression ( 10 1/2:1 i belive) and your A/F mix has to go way up or your gonna run too lean & burn the exhaust valves.
    I got two that I use for door stops.
    Also- there is no compression till both valves close- but yall know that.
    Last edited by hambiskit; 06-03-2004 at 11:06 PM.
    Jim

  9. #9
    BlueDSM's Avatar
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    Talking

     



    Ahh... Cool!

    Thanks for explaining it better guys, I had the principals a little mixed up in my head...

    I can go to sleep that much less dumber tonight

  10. #10
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    wow Tech......
    I'm impressed....that was well put & acurate. I can hardly ever get those two togather.
    Jim

  11. #11
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    the track is 50 miles away , so i need to get it there but by no means is it going to be a daily driver ! so with that in mind .......O , and it's more for look's and sound than anything so im look'n for the biggest cam with a 2200 stall . this is some im lookin at .......................

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 242 intake/252 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 184 intake/194 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .368 in. intake/.398 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 109 degrees
    * RPM range: 1,000 to 3,000
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 252 intake/262 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 194 intake/204 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .398 in. intake/.420 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 112 degrees
    * RPM range: 1,000 to 3,200
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 262 intake/272 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 204 intake/214 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .420 in. intake/.442 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 112 degrees
    * RPM range: 1,500 to 4,000
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 272 intake/282 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 214 intake/224 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .442 in. intake/.465 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 112 degrees
    * RPM range: 2,000 to 4,500
    * Good idle quality
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 282 intake/282 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/224 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .465 in. intake/.465 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 114 degrees
    * RPM range: 2,200 to 5,200
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 282 intake/292 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/234 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .465 in. intake/.488 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 114 degrees
    * RPM range: 2,200 to 5,700
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

  12. #12
    oldschool68cam's Avatar
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    ^^^^ how did it sound , lumpy at all ?^^^^

  13. #13
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    Re: Re: summit racing brand cam kit

     



    Originally posted by csf03716
    the 268 equivilant has 4 degrees advance ground in and is 112 lca a 2 degree difference from the comp design of 110...i have used the 204/214 cam in a 305 in a malibu wagon...worked great...will be useing it again in a 283 in a 64 impala....and it will work again!....use the stampped steel rockers to up the ratios to 1.6 its cheap and it works...
    the 268h comp cam is 224/230 477/480 @ 110 so the

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 282 intake/292 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: >>224 intake/234 exhaust<<
    * Gross valve lift: .>>465 in. intake/.488 in. exhaust<<
    * Lobe separation: 114 degrees
    * RPM range: 2,200 to 5,700
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    would be the equivilant right ? other than the 114 not 110 , is that fact going to make it not as lumpy? if so would the

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 272 intake/282 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 214 intake/224 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .442 in. intake/.465 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 112 degrees
    * RPM range: 2,000 to 4,500
    * Good idle quality
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    be the best sounding ?

  14. #14
    oldschool68cam's Avatar
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    allso i was looking at some info and saw this ? single-pattern cams have tighter lobe separations, for added torque, mid-range power, throttle response and that popular "lumpy idle" ..but i was told that the dual -pattern was the "lumpy " one?

    so does that make the

    Specifications:
    * Advertised duration: 282 intake/282 exhaust
    * Duration at .050 in. cam lift: 224 intake/224 exhaust
    * Gross valve lift: .465 in. intake/.465 in. exhaust
    * Lobe separation: 114 degrees
    * RPM range: 2,200 to 5,200
    * Ground with a 5 degree advance

    a good lumpy cam or is the 114 the problem ? so witch is lumpy'er the single-pattern or the dual -pattern ?

  15. #15
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    summit cam

     



    i have waited 5 years to answer a question on summit parts. i purchased a summit brand cam, installed it in the motor, and measured the lift with my dial indicator. guess what it was a .454 lift and i was supposed to have a .510 lift cam. it was in the right box though. i contacted summit and they said oh sorry, i needed this cam asap they refused to refund my money to put towards the lunati, until they got theirs back to inspect it. as i stated i was in a major hurry to get this done over my vacation, but they refused. even though i had 27 previous orders with them, totalling over 6000.oo. so i placed my order with jegs for a lunati LIKE I SHOULD HAVE IN THE FIRST PLACE. and never bought from them since. i only buy brand name parts on important parts, such as internal parts that are hard to retreive to send back in such a case.

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