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  1. #16
    glennsexton's Avatar
    glennsexton is online now CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    While I would never reuse old flat-tappet lifters (I be hard pressed to even recommend flat tappets – but that’s another post), I have and would recommend reusing rollers – with the caveat that they are serviceable. Roller lifters don’t generate a wear pattern in the same manner as flat-tappet lifters. GM dealers routinely reused factory lifters on a brand-new cams. If you’re building an existing roller motor, there is no reason to buy new lifters unless you just want to spend the money.

    The lifters that you have are a first tier component and with 5K miles should be like new. They have the link-bar to keep things in the proper perspective. Just make sure they go back in the same side they came from – you don’t want to reverse direction that they’ve been rolling.

    Several years ago I helped a young man with a real budget rebuild on a 350 for his pickup. The block was already prepared for roller ('87 or '88?) but was still running a flat-tappet cam. We bought 16 lifters, spider, push rods and rocker arms, and all the factory components from a U-Pull-It for $35. Used a new generic RV-cam from Sealed Power ground for 1500-4000 RPM. Soaked the lifters in oil for a few days and everything worked perfect. Granted, this was a real basic upgrade over stock, but certainly worth considering.
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  2. #17
    Alex-grand is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I installed cam and torque converter.
    I like this combination.
    Question: what’s the degree cam? Now I installed 12 degree (stroboscope)

  3. #18
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    Unsure what you are talking about. Don't know what you mean by 12 degrees stroboscope. Cam should be installed into the block according to the cam card that came with the cam, neither advanced nor retarded, but "straight up".
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  4. #19
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    Cam installed into the block according to the cam card.

    What’s the ignition degree ?

  5. #20
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    I'm just making an assumption, but it seems to me that Alex says that he installed the cam per the instructions on the cam card, which would be straight up, no pre-load advance or retard; and then that he's set his initial timing at 12*BTDC using a timing light, which he is calling a stroboscope (strobe fires with ignition), which sounds good to me.

    I may be totally off base, but that's my interpretation.
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex-grand View Post
    Cam installed into the block according to the cam card.
    What’s the ignition degree ?
    12 degrees before top dead center ignition firing sounds close. You can try it at several different locations, 8, 10, 12, 14, and so forth. Just be careful not to exceed 38 degrees total, initial and centrifugal.
    Here is an excellent article explaining vacuum advance that will aid you in dialing your motor in....
    Begin reading at FACT AND FICTION CONCERNING VACUUM ADVANCE...
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

    .
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    I'm just making an assumption, but it seems to me that Alex says that he installed the cam per the instructions on the cam card, which would be straight up, no pre-load advance or retard; and then that he's set his initial timing at 12*BTDC using a timing light, which he is calling a stroboscope (strobe fires with ignition), which sounds good to me.

    I may be totally off base, but that's my interpretation.
    Yes. Quite so
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Begin reading at FACT AND FICTION CONCERNING VACUUM ADVANCE...
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

    .
    I will study this moment.

    Advise: how an easy way to adjust the carb edelbrock whether the gas analyzer is necessary at the same time?

  9. #24
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    Edelbrock carburetors have always been easy for me to dial in, as they were patterned after the famous Carter AFB carburetor and I have plenty of experience with them. The worst part of them is that you have to remove the lid to change main jets. Metering rods and shooters are easy enough though, and if you just follow the tune up procedures published by Edelbrock, it's a pretty easy task.
    http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...ers-manual.pdf
    Performance Carburetors and Accessories - Calibration Accessories - Edelbrock, LLC.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...caAryOEALw_wcB

    What's the model number of your carb?

    A gas analyzer would certainly make the job easier, eliminating multiple road tests.
    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 05-17-2018 at 05:25 PM.
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  10. #25
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    My carb edelbrock 1411 with electric choke

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex-grand View Post
    My carb edelbrock 1411 with electric choke
    That's fine. The Owner's Manual that I linked above will cover your carburetor. Please read through it thoroughly before you begin to dial in the carb. The #1411 Calibration Reference Chart / Primary Metering chart is on page 15.
    .
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Edelbrock carburetors have always been easy for me to dial in, as they were patterned after the famous Carter AFB carburetor and I have plenty of experience with them. The worst part of them is that you have to remove the lid to change main jets. Metering rods and shooters are easy enough though, and if you just follow the tune up procedures published by Edelbrock, it's a pretty easy task.
    Agree, I have no problem with them either. IMHO, Edelbrock carburetors do not get the respect they should.

    I can change jets in my dual quads in about twenty minutes, lol. It's a little more work than a Holley, but once you get used to them it don't take long to pull the tops. TIP; use a magnet when pulling the jesus clips.

    Unfortunately, Edelbrock has discontinued some of the smaller rods and jets? But they're still out there if you look. Here's another source for parts;
    Carter AFB Metering Rods & Jets

    Edelbrock carbs have a couple of quirks that a lot of people don't understand (and causes them problems),
    1). Install a fuel pressure regulator and set it at no more than 5 PSI. Edelbrock's do not work well with higher pressure, they will leak and run poorly. Use a regulator...
    2). Set the floats exactly as specified in the manual. Edelbrock's do not like HIGH float settings, it will cause them to flood and stall especially when braking. The fuel bowl vent are low in the air horn and do not like high float settings.
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  13. #28
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    I have a gauge of pressure and regulator, but I not installed this.
    I will install it this week.
    Note: whether it is necessary to save the fuel line from high temperature?

  14. #29
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    I think when engine is working (car stay) acceleration is not affective, maybe Gasoline begins to boil? I mistake? Or not
    My fuel line with fuel filter very hot when car is stop
    Last edited by Alex-grand; 05-19-2018 at 01:58 PM.

  15. #30
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    This my engine after install new Cam with torq
    And I installed cold intake
    [IMG][/IMG]

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