Thread: To build or not War Hawk LS7
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04-10-2008 02:06 PM #1
Originally Posted by TedIII
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04-10-2008 04:25 PM #2
My humble suggestion would be to first evaluate the goal of the project. It sounds as if someone has a lot of $$ already invested in the hard components. However, just as a novice buying a Gibson guitar doesnt make them a skilled player, buying the tools doesnt necessarily make the most horsepower.
The trick to building anything is to be able to know what your shortcomings are and to compensate correctly. For instance, you may buy a neat tool to measure the crankshaft index and you may use it correctly. But then, if the crank index is wrong, you need to know how to correct the error...perhaps the way to correct the error is to send it to a professional who does hundreds of the same process.
If engine building were as simple as a ring compressor and a torque wrench, there wouldnt be such a wide spread between the performance of two "identical" engines. The real distinguishing mark is the attention to detail and the small "tricks" developed over multiple builds.
Given that, if you are doing a street engine with no exact performance measure besides the seat of the pants, build it yourself for the enjoyment, satisfaction, learning, and frustration....you'll be a better person for it. If you are serious about the last itty bit of horsepower, your first engine is not going to come near the pros.
mike in tucson
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04-10-2008 08:57 PM #3
Thanks guys, I agree, and understand. I love the fact that my son and I believes we can build the engine. I also believe there is a lot we can learn, and it is important to ask if you don't know. As far as tools, I mean specialty tools, like mics, dial indicators, and so on. I hope to keep the fustration to a minumum.http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/tzamk2/
67 cougar burn rubber not your soul!
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04-10-2008 11:13 PM #4
0"-1" micrometer
0"-2" micrometer
0"-3" micrometer
0"-6" dial caliper
set of snap gauges (telescoping gauges)
0"-1" dial indicator (0.100" revolution) with magnetic base
2 solid lifters for cam type used, to degree cam (cannot use hyd lifters. I have filled hyd lifters with JB weld in the past with success)
Degree wheel, larger is better.
Piston stop made from 1/4" or 3/8" X 1" steel strap. Drill holes each end to span between any two head bolts that will allow bar to cross cyl bore on #1 cyl and drill and tap hole in center of bar for bolt and nut. Use Isky positive stop method to find true TDC for cam timing and to verify TDC on harmonic damper ring at pointer.
set of checking springs (valve springs)
Read this through a couple of times....
http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.php
Others may add to this list, but this will get you started.....Last edited by techinspector1; 04-10-2008 at 11:18 PM.
PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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04-11-2008 04:35 PM #5
Thanks Tech,
That helps, will be back for more I'm sure.http://s36.photobucket.com/albums/e44/tzamk2/
67 cougar burn rubber not your soul!
Several years back, maybe before John & Rosie visited, Mike got fed up with work politics and took a week off to come to Kansas. We ran around the KC Metro for 2 or 3 days, and then he took a side...
RIP Mike Frade, aka 34_40