Thread: destroyed my cyl head today

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Originally Posted by cffisher

Pat
just a question about the 700 or 702 rod. How does it machine?? Is it like the iron?? Can you drill and tap in the repaired area ??

works good i have drill tap and bore tru it and mill it .i use it to fix decks on blocks. if you heat it up there is no hard spot pass the heat zone

If you heat it up with a torch , dont you run the risk of getting uneven temps throughout and warping the head?

Originally Posted by hotroddaddy

If you heat it up with a torch , dont you run the risk of getting uneven temps throughout and warping the head?

you are not welding all over the head ? you do not need to get the head that hot 400 is not that hot . i may not even heat the head .PEEN PEEN . with the 700or702 rod. the more heat you put in the head the hotter you need to get the head if you welded it with iron filler or a spray welder or tig you would have to get it hot to very hot and then what you said would apply and then all bad thing could happen i weld alum head and heat them with a torch it works but if you want to buy me a oven i would take one

Anybody thought of using sand ? when we wanted big pieces of cast iron to cool down slow, we put them into a box of heated sand, then wrapped the whole lot in heat insulation. the whole lot cooled down to room temp over a matter of days.

Originally Posted by southerner

Anybody thought of using sand ? when we wanted big pieces of cast iron to cool down slow, we put them into a box of heated sand, then wrapped the whole lot in heat insulation. the whole lot cooled down to room temp over a matter of days.

i wrap my welding coat and cover with heavy towels .the 99 nickel rod just dose not need the heat. i like just to put some heat to get the cold out and moister but not much more

Sorry all my heads are gone, and yes sand works good to

hey matt i got a whole 66 200 thats 100% complete head and all..... has a few bummed rods and bearings in it but nothing that would affect the head...... have you thought of maybe using a 250 head? has better flow and an intake manifold that comes off.... the slightly larger chambers would allow you to boost a little more as well

Originally Posted by thesals

hey matt i got a whole 66 200 thats 100% complete head and all..... has a few bummed rods and bearings in it but nothing that would affect the head...... have you thought of maybe using a 250 head? has better flow and an intake manifold that comes off.... the slightly larger chambers would allow you to boost a little more as well

only OZ 250 2V heads have removable intakes, which is the Australlian part. the Factory US 250 cyl heads are the same casting as 200 cyl heads.

So what are you saying ? We have plenty of the the old 250 falcon heads here, they must be worth a dime a dozen. Johnboy would probably know more on the subject.

well, I found DVAP has a '78 head for $150+ shipping which is $50. cost to have hardened seats put in my stock head, $325, so I'm gonna buy the $150 '78 head that is better flowing with hardened seats, also has a little larger valves than the '67 head.

Originally Posted by southerner

So what are you saying ? We have plenty of the the old 250 falcon heads here, they must be worth a dime a dozen. Johnboy would probably know more on the subject.

the 250 2v heads are plentiful in the land of OZ, but there are only a few importers getting them into the US, so they are very expensive, $800-1k each depending on condition. there is a company called classicinlines that has them imported and sells them for $900, problem is that the waiting list is so long, it takes 6 months to get 1 after you order and because it's so backed up, ordering is shut down, and may never restart because the owner also had an alloy head made using the oz 250 2v as a base designe, it will release in a couple months for $1,500

i shoulda taken the few that i've seen in the junkyard then.... i've seen 3 or 4 of them with the removable intakes.... i thought that was just the difference between the 200 and the 250.... guess not

matt if you port your new head take the old one cut if up in a band saw i did this to junk heads so i knew how much i had and where not to go nuts and if you cut thru the port in to the ex or intake you can run liners in the port if you did not get in the water i have put the liners in the 355cnc dart heads

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

matt if you port your new head take the old one cut if up in a band saw i did this to junk heads so i knew how much i had and where not to go nuts and if you cut thru the port in to the ex or intake you can run liners in the port if you did not get in the water i have put the liners in the 355cnc dart heads

the newer head is a compleatley diffrent casting ( bigger ports ). I'm just going to do a little bowl work under the valves, and call it good.