Thread: Kind of a Drag

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No baffle under oil cap------1 & 3 get oil fouled-----maybe valve seals/guides bad and your pouring oil directly into cylinders??
I agree that low compression on 2 adjaction cylinders sometimes indicates leaking head gasket, but also on engines with the intake having 2 ports side by side that can also mean(especially on aftermarket) bad seal around those two ports plus in this case it also is running lean/whiscling?

Leaky solenoids/fittings /plates on nitous systems is quite common and is probably the only way you could kill the milage this much-unless he is mixing mpg(miles per gallon ) with Kpl(kilo per liter)

The header to head is just one of several places for an exhaust leak-------just think about how many joints are fabbed and welded and then installed with ill fitting expansion joints, flex joints, etc-

Oh-by the way----if number 1 is fouled--------your timing light just might not work-try it off of number 6 cylinder

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Oh-by the way----if number 1 is fouled--------your timing light just might not work-try it off of number 6 cylinder

This is a great TIP guys, as most inductance fed lights will not read correctly if the plug circuit is fowled (spark plug completes the circuit).

All other plugs had a brownish tint at the end. except for one and 3 which had an oil film ond not working. If I cleaned the oil off they would appear new. No discoloration of porcelin at all on any plugs externally. Insde some slight cooked oil buildup. 2468 no oil buildup at all.

I know my timing light doesen't work I tried it on all the wires. If I jiggle the pickp wire it's work momentarily. Not long enough to get a reading.

Ohyeah, Soot in the carb but not on the plugs with the Edelbrock.

I didn't check the other cylinders, just 1 and 3. I can check the rest except for no 6 which is impossible with the header on.

Originally Posted by Good Wrench

I didn't check the other cylinders, just 1 and 3. I can check the rest except for no 6 which is impossible with the header on.

When I asked for a compression test yesterday (or day before) you posted 160-165 all cylinders? If these numbers are correct, then there's a problem. If you did not give correct numbers, then do the test on all so we can compare them accurately.

I did the last compression test with the old heads on. I never checked it with the new heads.

Originally Posted by Good Wrench

I did the last compression test with the old heads on. I never checked it with the new heads.

REALLY, come on guys don't make this so hard to do.....

Mr. Good Wrench,
No disrespect intended, but Im gonna tell you the same thing I have told many before. On any job no matter what you are doing, to go fast at it you must first SLOW down. In other words, don't skip around all over trying to get a bunch of easy things done. Rather, be thorough, methodical and complete, It may take a little longer, but you won't miss nearly as much. And, think of the time you'll save if you're NOT doing it over and over....

Checked the fuel milage ------in 1990 I could go 40 miles on $5.00-Nowadays, I can only go 12--------???????????

was that a yellow brick road in the pics????????


Look-heres a path for you to go down--------pull the intake so you can check the gasket on ports 1 and 3-if its leaking you will foul plugs and have excessive blow by that will soot up the carb thru the pcv line. Check and/or replace the pcv valve. Remove the nitous plat and do new gaskets. If you are mixing gaskets for spread bore carbs/manifold and square bore carbs/manifolds you WILL have a severe vacume leak because of overlapping holes( wish I had some spreadbore gasket to pic)

See if you can wiggle the valve stem any indicating wiped guides,

Before dismantling anything , start and run with valve covers removed and see if ALL the pushrods are SPINNING---spin,stop,spin,stop-------

Pull distributor and bench check including phasing of the rotor to cap for normal and full advance -drill holes in old cap near lugs-------



Yea-100 posts--------

Sombody did mention holes in the cap near the lugs. Pressure buildup in the cap?

Checked compression on 5 and 7 140 139.
Sprayed the intake seam with wd40 No leaks no whistle.
Started engine. Fires right up, no lope, no blowby.
a constant 19 inches of vacuum at 950 rpm. Stays the same at 650 rpm.
oil pressure is 50 at 950 rpm.
Checked pvc valve. seems to work.
little puffs of h20 out the exhaust both sides. No hydrocarbon smell at all now.
Vacuum steady no jumping around.
Will go and buy another timing light,
Will pull off valve covers and look at the spins. Also will see if oil is reaching the top.

we want compression of 1 and 3 plus the other side also while your at it---

the intake leak I'm talking about is the under side in the valley-exposed to oil which can be easily pulled into clylinders

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

we want compression of 1 and 3 plus the other side also while your at it---

the intake leak I'm talking about is the under side in the valley-exposed to oil which can be easily pulled into clylinders

And will never be found by spraying a combustible product onto the outside of the motor.

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