BTW, there r street racers, and what street racers call street squirrels or street stupid, the former is goin to b the one that u have seldom if even seen so much as hit their car, let alone race, the one under whose hood u have NEVER SEEN, the one who is a whole lot quicker and faster than they look or sound rather than Vice Versa, the one who plays dumb rather than as if they know all about their OWN ride, let alone urs.
The ones u see out with their hood up or off showcasin n broadcasting the latest trick of the week part or build, callin for exhorbitant amounts to bet to race, the ones u see racin thru a half crocked crowd of spectators, and or down residential streets, light to light, burnin out from every stop, that is a street squirell like the clowns in the fast n furious n biker boys movies which is where most of these young clowns copy the crap from, especially the "importers" who really never actually wanna drag race, they wanna go " from a roll", AND they wanna run for free if they run each other let alone a domestic V8. Unfortunately, all Horsepower is NOT created equally, IE given all else equal, a 300bhp V8 is gonna beat the snot outta a 300bhp 4cyl or even v6 every trip of the train unless he breaks or screws up his pass in some way... why ? cause the 300bhp V8 is gonna make MORE tq at a much lower rpm than is the 4cyl or V6 and the more tq u make at lower rpm the fewer rpm u need turn to make any given amount of bhp, there is actually no such thing as horsepower, same is simply a mathematical expression of tq multiplied by the specified rpm diff tween the TQ peak rpm and the BHP peak rpm. remember, drag racin is more about quick than fast, if u make a 10 flat pas n i make a 10.50 pass it ain't gonna matter if im goin 100 mph faster than u when i get to the traps, u still got there a half sec quickler than i did and u win. Therefore its a misnomer to build for BHP essentually in a drag car, rather build for maximum tq at the least amount of rpm across the widest powerband within ur usable RPM range as u can, the only problem with that is that BHP which usually comes at relatively hgh rpm's when the vehicle is ALREADY in motion is a whole lot easier to hook than is TQ at low rpm when the vehicle is tryin to get up from rest, objects in motion tend to want to stay in motion and accellerate while conversely object at rest tend not to want to move from same, the heavier it is the less its willin to move from rest, once u make the tq to overcome that, u now need the traction to take advantage of same, whether brute tq or gross bhp, that which u can not put TO THE GROUND is counterfiet, no use, u can put 1000 bhp to the rear tires or front if ur FWD even divide it = tween frnt n rear with AWD or 4wheel drive etc, if u only have traction yeild to put 700 or 800 to the ground that is what will determine how quick ur gonna go or accelerate from rest, many feel if they can't fry the tires they are strong or fast, while the truth is that zero wheerlspin is to b sought after, not overcome, and with an automatic u need to flash ur verter from as low an rpm as u can get away with w/o boggin the car unless u have a trans brake, yet another item best left at the track on pro race cars, they r not especiaslly user friendly on the street and no matter how strong a trans ya got a brake is gonna vastly shorten its life, same as hgh power hgh rpm lauches with a stick shortens the clutch life...AND before someone makes the claim, NO auto, even WITH a trans brake is ultimately as quick all else equal as is a stick shift, however, since it is less driver intense in use than is a stick its almost always more consistant. Besides there is a vast diff tween bein able to drive a stick shift and proficiently drag race one, trus me, its no very much about how fast u can move the shifter as one might expect, lot more to it than that, especially to achieve any kind of consistancy.
All this to explain why one would b better to STAGE hgh amounts of spray application to avoid traction and or driveline breakage issues on the launch. what good is it to spray 100 or 200 bhp of spray if it jus blows the tires away or breaks the driveline somehow ???
exactly, none....
this also explains why MOST racers prefer an auto vs a manual, they r easy to operate and require less driver input to do so proficiently thus they r more consistant, and since they have WET clutches which do not make for the adhesion of a dry clutch, they all less likely to blow the tires away or break the driveline in hgh hp applications. in fact by the time u get to 4k rpm stall speed ur well down into the 80 per centile lockup efficiency range and it only gets worse as stall speed goes up from there, where as a good dry clutch set up can achieve as much as 99.9 per cent lock up efficiency, IE a 1 engine rev amounts to may as well say 1 driveshaft rev, while with an auto with a hgh stall verter 1 engine rev may equal .8 or less driveshaft rev. also with a stick u have effectively an any size stall converter w/o the attendant loss of lock up efficiency, in short u can take 2 equal cars with equal prowess drivers, one auto, the other stick, the stick mtr can and sometime will; go quicker than the auto, even when it doesn't have quite as much power because of this, especially if the auto has a less than optimum stall speed for its engine combo.