also, with spray use, research is great but actual experience is MUCH better.
for the guy showing the bent rods n such from the 351, u used TOO much at TOO low an RPM and or u did not have a recip assembly that would tolerate the power level u achieved when u engaged ur spray, u may have even also leaned the system out....
for the guy using 4 degrees of retard per 100bhp, waaaaaaayyyyyyy too much, ur actually decreasein the effectiveness of ur spray by a great deal....
another thing, the closer u place the solenhoids to the plate or fogger nozzles the quicker n harder the system hits, even W/ a purge.
u can tailor ur hit also by manipulations in fuel pressure and timing....
For instant, u can increase ur effectiveness by lowering the amount of retard and or ur fuel pressure.
Also, the lower ur mechanical compression ratio, the more effective spray is, hgh compression engages usually involve large amounts of cam duration and wide lobe center n lobe sep numbers thus OVERLAPP and bleeding off of cyl pressure, fine for straight engine and or boost, but NOT for spray... also a short overlap cam in a hgh compression engine is gonna make for some exhorbitant static cyl pressures in operation at normal operating tempsget the thing warm n u may need 25 degrees of retard added to get the starter to turn the thing over, even a mini tq.
when planing to use spray, pick a cam off the shelf or have cut a specific grind and install it STRAIGHT UP, do NOT RETARD OR ADVANCE SAME in installation, ur jus askin for problems if u do.
as i said earlier, i been spraying since 77, when ALL spray systems were foggers call direct port and took as much as 3 or 4 days to properly install, and who knows how many passes to dial in correctly, let no one tell u can baseline a spray system without makin some flogging passes, u can't, not even if u use the baseline or set u used on another engine exactly like the one ur going to use, ur still gonna have to make some floggin passes to properly dial the system in.