Greetings!
I just bought a blown S10 and before I take it to the track, I would like to get some tips about what to expect, driving technique, etc.
Until now I've just raced foot brake stock handicap.
Thanks
Printable View
Greetings!
I just bought a blown S10 and before I take it to the track, I would like to get some tips about what to expect, driving technique, etc.
Until now I've just raced foot brake stock handicap.
Thanks
1---Line up at beginning of track 2----watch christmas tree 3---when light turns green mash accelerator pedal to floor
4---hang on for dear life
5---change underwear
"change underwear"
:LOL:
5. "depends":LOL:
That's funny! I learned most of those a long time ago. I'm sure #5 will be brand new to me though. I knew from watching years of NHRA/IHRA that leaving on the green will make you a loser every time. My lights in stock 67 Fairlane were .510 to .568 (except for occasional brain fade or mechanical malfunction)
Seriously, anyone that's run a blown car have some useful tips? It doesn't have wheelie bars, will I need them? Do I leave on the yellow or in between yellow and green. How will it act down track as the revs come up? I'm sure it will pull much differently than naturally aspirated.
Some specs:
350 w/Scat stroker crank - forged rotating assy.
625hp.
7.9:1 compression
Sportsman 2 heads
Weiand 671
Dual 600 Holleys
Sanderson custom ceramic headers
MSD
Turbo 350 - TCI valve body
B&M 2400 converter with anti-balloon plate
12 bolt truck rear end
Moser 30 spline axles
Richmond 4.56 gears
4 link - coil over shocks
Pro Star - 15x18 rear
10 point cage
12 gal. feul cell in rear
battery in rear
My plan is to make some runs starting with 1/4 track, then 1/2 track, etc. until I feel comfortable with a full run on local 1/8 mi. track. Then go to Bradenton 1/4 mi.
Not knowing this car I'm concerned about the 4.56 gears on 1/4 mi. track.
Any thoughts? Suggestions? Comments?
I've got plenty of depends :LOL:
By the way, I got this truck for only $10,000 :D
I'm in much the same situation as you. I'm building a blown "Z". I drive a bone stock 1/2 ton extended cab now. So, the depends have been suggested to me by several people. I think you've got the right idea. take it slow. It was suggested to me to run the blower on low boost almost normally aspirated until I get the hang of it. I suppose a 2''x4'' under the go peddle would have a similar effect. If you happen to run faster than 10 sec. you'll only get one shot at it until you get the required safety equipment and certification, license, etc. What's been done to the rest of the chassis as far as safety stuff?Quote:
Originally posted by blownS10
My plan is to make some runs starting with 1/4 track, then 1/2 track, etc. until I feel comfortable with a full run on local 1/8 mi. track. Then go to Bradenton 1/4 mi.
Not knowing this car I'm concerned about the 4.56 gears on 1/4 mi. track.
Any thoughts? Suggestions? Comments?
I've got plenty of depends :LOL:
By the way, I got this truck for only $10,000 :D
As far as how / when to launch, I think will depend on how you and the vehicle react together. It will just take trial and error and practice, practice, practice.
Thaniks pro70z28.
It has driveshaft loops, padded roll bar, not sure about the harness rating.
I'm going to have to add window net, trans blanket, and get clothing, helmet, neck collar.
If I keep it slower than 11.99, I won't need most of this stuff, right?
I ordered a rulebook today.
When do you plan on getting yours on the track?
"not sure about the harness rating."
16.1 belts need to be replaced every 2 years. Check the date punched on the belt tags, if over 2 years, replace them. You can sometimes sell your outdated belts to racers who don't need dated belts (11.50 and slower).
"window net"
SFI 27.1, replaced every 2 years, (required when a cage is required) at either 9.99 with unaltered floor and firewall or 10.99 with floor altered in excess of 4 sq. ft. (not counting wheel tubs) or firewall altered in excess of 1 sq. ft.)
"trans blanket"
SFI 4.1, fabric type replaced every 2 years, aluminum type replaced every 5 years, required at 10.99. Some aftermarket tranny cases have the 4.1 certification built into them, so that no external blow-up shield is required.
"clothing"
SFI 3.2A/1 jacket at 11.49, SFI 3.2A/5 jacket and pants, 3.3/1 gloves and 3.3 neck collar at 9.99
"helmet"
Minimum Snell 90, replace every 15 years. Make sure the Snell tag in affixed to the shock material under the fabric innerliner, usually in the back or over the left ear. "SA" included in the tag i.d. incicates "special application" (Nomex).
"If I keep it slower than 11.99, I won't need most of this stuff, right?"
If the tech inspector determines that the truck can run 9's, he might insist you have all equipment to go 9's. (What if you banged the wall, were knocked unconscious and the throttle stuck wide open?) Be very, very nice to the tech inspector.
And, as Gary mentioned, you'll also need a chassis certification and competition license at 9.99, along with a SFI 29.1 flexplate and 30.1 flexplate shield. Some aftermarket tranny cases have the 30.1 built into them.
If the battery has been relocated, make sure the master cutoff switch is on the rearmost part of the truck and that it kills the motor as well as all electrical functions.
Man, this seems like a lot of stuff you have to do to be able to race in the 9's. I guess I will need a rulebook to learn all this before building the 48 even if I will be running high 10's or so because I know I will always keep adding more power and might as well build it right the first time. Anyway to make a 9 second car street legal?
Sorry, not trying to take over the thread, it kind of goes with what we are talking about so thought I would add a bit and ask some ?'s.
Thanks.
I knew I would have to relocate the battery shutoff. It's under the stock gas filler door on the side.
What's a flexplate? The converter has anti-ballooning. Is that it?
The truck is coming from Texas Friday, so I'll know more about what I need to do. I'm just going by pictures and what the seller has told me. I can't wait to get it on the street. He said it's a blast to drive.
My plan is to change blower drive pulleys and reduce boost to keep it in the 12's for awhile.
How will the inspector determine whether it's capable of going faster? Can they tell from the pulley configuration? I plan on having all the documentation on the car to backup what it is and what I tell them. I know ultimately it's their call as to what I have to do to get it on the track.
Thanks for all the info techinspector1.
FMXhellraiser, join in when you want. The more feedback about what it takes to go fast and be legal, the better!
Interesting question about 9 sec street legal car. I'm curious to know myself. I dont' think mine will go that quick but I plan on driving it on the street.
I meant to ask, what is the procedure for getting chassis certification and competition license?
Thanks
Found this on NHRA competition license:
competition license
Call local track and let them know your deal, most tracks have a chassis certification date at the beginning of the year. As for getting your license, you will need to make a number of runs, and it depends on what your gonna get licensed for but you will have to make ( not 100% sure) at least 2 passes going under say 10.99 or 9.99. Track owner will sign at the end of the night as long as you have your slips to prove it but you must notify track personell that your trying to get your license since you will have to run single and not with another car.
"What's a flexplate?"
The flexplate bolts to the crankshaft and the converter bolts to the flexplate. It has a ring gear around the circumference of it that the starter pinion engages into to start the motor.
" How will the inspector determine whether it's capable of going faster?"
If you show up at the drag strip with the list of equipment you've shown at the top of this thread, he won't have to be a mental giant to know that the truck is capable of going faster than 12's.
" what is the procedure for getting chassis certification "
Call Jim Collins, the NHRA Southeast Division Tech Director at 757-686-2222 any Tuesday or Thursday evening, 8:00 to 10:00 PM. He can tell you when and where they'll be doing chassis certs or he can arrange for a chassis cert inspector to come to your house and inspect the cage.
" I dont' think mine will go that quick but I plan on driving it on the street."
It might if you select the proper pulleys and you're able to make the rear hook up.
Try to get all the receipts from the builder where he bought all the goodies. You'll need purchase dates to verify SFI dating if the parts aren't tagged and dated.
Thanks, Great stuff!
I've changed manual transmissions, but never much with automatics. Feel kind of foolish not knowing what a flexplate was.
I didn't mean that I was hoping the inspector wouldn't really know what the car is capable of.
You can underdrive the blower enough to make the engine almost "normally aspirated" right? Will the inspector know I'm not trying to go faster than 12's by looking at the pulleys and therefore not require everything that might be needed with quicker times, or will the car still have to pass sub 12 tech just because it has the potential with more boost.
I'd like to take it easy at first with little or no boost and not have to spend money on everything that's required for what the car may be capable of with high boost.
I suppose I could always take the blower assy off and use a single 4bbl and intake to slow it down.
Just a thought, maybe tech would have some insight. You may want to consider getting one of your local track inspectors to come right to your place and give the car a good going over and tell you what you will need to do to the car before you would be allowed in competition with it. We have a tech inspector here locally (IHRA) who makes house calls for gas money and an extra burger on the grille !!!
Excellent call Dave.
Being REAL about it, I'm probably making too much about the tech being clairvoyant. Follow Dave's advice and make a friend. The only thing you don't know is if the tech guy knows his stuff. Whomever you invite over, make sure he's at least SFI Bronze certified and preferably Silver certified. If you can't find a certified tech, at least make sure the guy has been teching cars for several decades.
P.S. Don't remove the blower.
"You can underdrive the blower enough to make the engine almost "normally aspirated" right? "
Yes, you can. One thing you need to correct though, is that there is no such thing as "normally aspirated". A motor is either naturally aspirated or artificially aspirated. Not baggin' on you, just want to see you use the correct terminology.
I was having trouble finding the right word, "naturally" apirated was what I was searching for. I have probably heard it on ESPN2 a million times. DUH!
Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciated it!
Can you post up some more pics of your new Blazer like the engine, etc? Sounds like a cool ride. My teacher has a (I think)96 or 97 pro street blazer with a 455 in it and moved back 6 inches or more. I think more because everything is moved way back and your like kind of near where the back seats used to be but not quite. But anyways, that thing is sweet. Not sure how good of traction it gets though but oh well, still nice.
Thanks FMXhellraiser. It's arriving from Texas on Friday evening, so I'll try to get some photos this weekend.Quote:
Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Can you post up some more pics of your new Blazer like the engine, etc? Sounds like a cool ride. My teacher has a (I think)96 or 97 pro street blazer with a 455 in it and moved back 6 inches or more. I think more because everything is moved way back and your like kind of near where the back seats used to be but not quite. But anyways, that thing is sweet. Not sure how good of traction it gets though but oh well, still nice.
I was wondering about traction too. The previous owner said he raced it a few times with a different 383 unblown motor and it didn't hook up quite enough, so with this motor it should have less traction.
Once I get a look at it, I'll be asking questions about how to fix it. There is so much I need to learn about 4 link suspension and weight transfer. Looks like I may have to raise the front end some. The stall seems relatively low compared to most I've seen online so I guess it would get less traction with higher stall? It does come with slicks too so that's a good thing.
It's going to be a blast driving it around town to local weekend hot spots until I get it ready to race!
If it has 4 links then I hear those take time and a lot of runs to get them dialed in the way you wan't. That is why I am going with a simple ladder bar set up now. I am not experienced at it and all so that is why I will be going with the ladder bar setup, plus I think it was BlownGoat on here that told me how a 4 link is harder and takes a long time to get dialed in just right and that a ladder bar will do just fine.
Anybody got links to some good 4 link tutorials?
Look up Chris Alsons (sp) Chassis Works website and email them to ask for a video and cataloge. They explain it all on there. Do a google search.
www.cachassisworks.comQuote:
Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
Look up Chris Alsons (sp) Chassis Works website and email them to ask for a video and cataloge. They explain it all on there. Do a google search.
www.artmorrison.com
The best book I've found for chassis tuning (so far) is Jerry Bickel's Complete Guide To Chassis Performance. www.jerrybickel.com . It has a section specifically for four link. Does a good job of explaining instant center locations and how each set-up changes the behavior of the chassis. ................... and it's got pictures too :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Thanks for correcting me or adding that link in for me Pro70.
Might just have to pick up this chassis software
http://www.jerrybickel.com/software.html
Looks interesting.
Any Body have any experience with it? Worth the bux??
Thanks!
Let us know what you come up with for a chassis tune with the 4 link.Quote:
Originally posted by blownS10
Thanks!
Thanks for the link, Pro. He has some killer deals on used stuff!!!
No problemo.......... I should pay more attention to that site myself. :)
Here's a few links I came across on suspension instant center and traction.
The Basics of Bite
Basics of Bite
Software
Performance Trends
My car came from Texas Friday. Looks pretty nice and motor is strong, but I've got some work to do to get it on the track. Gonna be fun on the street for awhile anyway!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ng/e3_12_b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ng/h3_12_b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ng/g3_12_b.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ng/b9_12_b.jpg
Good lookin' ride!!! Glad to hear it made it to it's new home intact. Should be a blast on the street!!!!!
Aren't high stall converters a pain in the rear to street? Seemed my buddy with the 427 in a VW bus had one and it was...
Oh and that does look like a fun ride. Man I think you got a great deal!
Posted by kcress:
"Aren't high stall converters a pain in the rear to street? Seemed my buddy with the 427 in a VW bus had one and it was..."
Converters up to 3,000 or 3,500 are very streetable, providing you use a transmission cooler of adequate size and mount it in the airstream, not flat under the car like I've seen some guys do. You have to consider that the converter will STALL at that rpm. That doesn't mean that the motor will be buzzing to that rpm every time you start off or when you're cruising. They are absolutely essential though, when using a cam with a higher operating range. If you're making power from 3,500 to 7,000 rpm's, you can't use a stock stall converter because the motor won't pull the hat off your head at low r's. Stock-type cams make power from idle to about 4,000 or 4,500 rpm's, so the factory used a converter that complements the low-end torque produced by the stock cam. Granny doesn't want excessive revs and the subsequent motor noise when she's headed to bingo.
Thanks tech. So until the converter locks up, it is real lossy and needs to dump those losses out a *functional* radiator.
Man that engine looks sweet! Let us know how it does after you drive that puppy. I am sure no ricers will give you any problems either, especially with that blower and all sticking out the hood haha.
Unless you're using a lock-up converter from a late-model computer car with electronically controlled trans, the converter will never lock up. A conventional stock converter will lose 3-5 % at the top end and a looser converter will lose a little more, depending on the design.Quote:
Originally posted by kcress
Thanks tech. So until the converter locks up, it is real lossy and needs to dump those losses out a *functional* radiator.
Nice looking Pro Street S10/Blazer. You should have a blast at the local cruise-ins. As far as the 4-link. Read as much as you can, I learned from a book called 'Door Slammers' it's a chassis book. Anyway, The more power you make then you will move your IC towards the front of the car. I've bot mine at about 39" from the rear axle. You can change the IC so many ways with a 4-link that the possibilities are nearly endless. However there is only a couple of "right" settings.
Start off with your bottom bars parallel with the ground (Make sure you are on a level surface) with you in the car and at racing weight. Move your top FRONT bar rod end to the bottom hole and your top rear rod end at either the top or second hole (Mine only has two holes). That should get you in the ball park and then you can tune from there. Shock settings also play a role with tuning a 4-link. Oh yeah: almost forgot about pinion angle and pre-load. Set your pinion angle at 1° to 2° for 4-link cars with the top drivers side bar then lock it down (Don't forget to be on a level surface). Then you can adjust pre-load, if needed, by turning the top passenger side bar.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Phantasea427, thanks for the tips. I found a book for sale by Dave Morgan "Door Slammers - The Chassis Book". Looks great.
I'll probably get it in a few weeks. In the meantime, could you clarify how to preload? I am a stark naked beginner at this. :confused:
Oh yeah, anyone have experience with water/methanol injection systems? Looks like a good way to keep it "cool", gain power and prevent detonation without taking out timing.
Preload is where you "jack up" the passenger side anticipating that during launch, the car will be even. In your case, I think you can just leave it level. Extreme cases can be seen at the track where when you look at the car from the rear, the passenger side rear bumper is higher than the drivers side rear bumper. I use very little pre-load in my car. You will learn all this stuff when you read through "Door Slammers".Quote:
Originally posted by blownS10
In the meantime, could you clarify how to preload? I am a stark naked beginner at this. :confused:
Good Luck!!