Thread: Just bought blown car, looking for track tips

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Greetings!

I just bought a blown S10 and before I take it to the track, I would like to get some tips about what to expect, driving technique, etc.

Until now I've just raced foot brake stock handicap.

Thanks

1---Line up at beginning of track 2----watch christmas tree 3---when light turns green mash accelerator pedal to floor
4---hang on for dear life
5---change underwear

"change underwear"

5. "depends"

That's funny! I learned most of those a long time ago. I'm sure #5 will be brand new to me though. I knew from watching years of NHRA/IHRA that leaving on the green will make you a loser every time. My lights in stock 67 Fairlane were .510 to .568 (except for occasional brain fade or mechanical malfunction)

Seriously, anyone that's run a blown car have some useful tips? It doesn't have wheelie bars, will I need them? Do I leave on the yellow or in between yellow and green. How will it act down track as the revs come up? I'm sure it will pull much differently than naturally aspirated.

Some specs:
350 w/Scat stroker crank - forged rotating assy.
625hp.
7.9:1 compression
Sportsman 2 heads
Weiand 671
Dual 600 Holleys
Sanderson custom ceramic headers
MSD
Turbo 350 - TCI valve body
B&M 2400 converter with anti-balloon plate
12 bolt truck rear end
Moser 30 spline axles
Richmond 4.56 gears
4 link - coil over shocks
Pro Star - 15x18 rear
10 point cage
12 gal. feul cell in rear
battery in rear

My plan is to make some runs starting with 1/4 track, then 1/2 track, etc. until I feel comfortable with a full run on local 1/8 mi. track. Then go to Bradenton 1/4 mi.
Not knowing this car I'm concerned about the 4.56 gears on 1/4 mi. track.

Any thoughts? Suggestions? Comments?

I've got plenty of depends

By the way, I got this truck for only $10,000

Originally posted by blownS10

My plan is to make some runs starting with 1/4 track, then 1/2 track, etc. until I feel comfortable with a full run on local 1/8 mi. track. Then go to Bradenton 1/4 mi.
Not knowing this car I'm concerned about the 4.56 gears on 1/4 mi. track.

Any thoughts? Suggestions? Comments?

I've got plenty of depends

By the way, I got this truck for only $10,000

I'm in much the same situation as you. I'm building a blown "Z". I drive a bone stock 1/2 ton extended cab now. So, the depends have been suggested to me by several people. I think you've got the right idea. take it slow. It was suggested to me to run the blower on low boost almost normally aspirated until I get the hang of it. I suppose a 2''x4'' under the go peddle would have a similar effect. If you happen to run faster than 10 sec. you'll only get one shot at it until you get the required safety equipment and certification, license, etc. What's been done to the rest of the chassis as far as safety stuff?

As far as how / when to launch, I think will depend on how you and the vehicle react together. It will just take trial and error and practice, practice, practice.

Thaniks pro70z28.

It has driveshaft loops, padded roll bar, not sure about the harness rating.

I'm going to have to add window net, trans blanket, and get clothing, helmet, neck collar.

If I keep it slower than 11.99, I won't need most of this stuff, right?

I ordered a rulebook today.

When do you plan on getting yours on the track?

"not sure about the harness rating."
16.1 belts need to be replaced every 2 years. Check the date punched on the belt tags, if over 2 years, replace them. You can sometimes sell your outdated belts to racers who don't need dated belts (11.50 and slower).

"window net"
SFI 27.1, replaced every 2 years, (required when a cage is required) at either 9.99 with unaltered floor and firewall or 10.99 with floor altered in excess of 4 sq. ft. (not counting wheel tubs) or firewall altered in excess of 1 sq. ft.)

"trans blanket"
SFI 4.1, fabric type replaced every 2 years, aluminum type replaced every 5 years, required at 10.99. Some aftermarket tranny cases have the 4.1 certification built into them, so that no external blow-up shield is required.

"clothing"
SFI 3.2A/1 jacket at 11.49, SFI 3.2A/5 jacket and pants, 3.3/1 gloves and 3.3 neck collar at 9.99

"helmet"
Minimum Snell 90, replace every 15 years. Make sure the Snell tag in affixed to the shock material under the fabric innerliner, usually in the back or over the left ear. "SA" included in the tag i.d. incicates "special application" (Nomex).

"If I keep it slower than 11.99, I won't need most of this stuff, right?"
If the tech inspector determines that the truck can run 9's, he might insist you have all equipment to go 9's. (What if you banged the wall, were knocked unconscious and the throttle stuck wide open?) Be very, very nice to the tech inspector.

And, as Gary mentioned, you'll also need a chassis certification and competition license at 9.99, along with a SFI 29.1 flexplate and 30.1 flexplate shield. Some aftermarket tranny cases have the 30.1 built into them.

If the battery has been relocated, make sure the master cutoff switch is on the rearmost part of the truck and that it kills the motor as well as all electrical functions.

Man, this seems like a lot of stuff you have to do to be able to race in the 9's. I guess I will need a rulebook to learn all this before building the 48 even if I will be running high 10's or so because I know I will always keep adding more power and might as well build it right the first time. Anyway to make a 9 second car street legal?
Sorry, not trying to take over the thread, it kind of goes with what we are talking about so thought I would add a bit and ask some ?'s.
Thanks.

I knew I would have to relocate the battery shutoff. It's under the stock gas filler door on the side.

What's a flexplate? The converter has anti-ballooning. Is that it?

The truck is coming from Texas Friday, so I'll know more about what I need to do. I'm just going by pictures and what the seller has told me. I can't wait to get it on the street. He said it's a blast to drive.

My plan is to change blower drive pulleys and reduce boost to keep it in the 12's for awhile.

How will the inspector determine whether it's capable of going faster? Can they tell from the pulley configuration? I plan on having all the documentation on the car to backup what it is and what I tell them. I know ultimately it's their call as to what I have to do to get it on the track.

Thanks for all the info techinspector1.

FMXhellraiser, join in when you want. The more feedback about what it takes to go fast and be legal, the better!

Interesting question about 9 sec street legal car. I'm curious to know myself. I dont' think mine will go that quick but I plan on driving it on the street.

I meant to ask, what is the procedure for getting chassis certification and competition license?

Thanks

Found this on NHRA competition license:
competition license

Call local track and let them know your deal, most tracks have a chassis certification date at the beginning of the year. As for getting your license, you will need to make a number of runs, and it depends on what your gonna get licensed for but you will have to make ( not 100% sure) at least 2 passes going under say 10.99 or 9.99. Track owner will sign at the end of the night as long as you have your slips to prove it but you must notify track personell that your trying to get your license since you will have to run single and not with another car.

"What's a flexplate?"

The flexplate bolts to the crankshaft and the converter bolts to the flexplate. It has a ring gear around the circumference of it that the starter pinion engages into to start the motor.

" How will the inspector determine whether it's capable of going faster?"

If you show up at the drag strip with the list of equipment you've shown at the top of this thread, he won't have to be a mental giant to know that the truck is capable of going faster than 12's.

" what is the procedure for getting chassis certification "

Call Jim Collins, the NHRA Southeast Division Tech Director at 757-686-2222 any Tuesday or Thursday evening, 8:00 to 10:00 PM. He can tell you when and where they'll be doing chassis certs or he can arrange for a chassis cert inspector to come to your house and inspect the cage.

" I dont' think mine will go that quick but I plan on driving it on the street."

It might if you select the proper pulleys and you're able to make the rear hook up.

Try to get all the receipts from the builder where he bought all the goodies. You'll need purchase dates to verify SFI dating if the parts aren't tagged and dated.

Thanks, Great stuff!

I've changed manual transmissions, but never much with automatics. Feel kind of foolish not knowing what a flexplate was.

I didn't mean that I was hoping the inspector wouldn't really know what the car is capable of.

You can underdrive the blower enough to make the engine almost "normally aspirated" right? Will the inspector know I'm not trying to go faster than 12's by looking at the pulleys and therefore not require everything that might be needed with quicker times, or will the car still have to pass sub 12 tech just because it has the potential with more boost.

I'd like to take it easy at first with little or no boost and not have to spend money on everything that's required for what the car may be capable of with high boost.

I suppose I could always take the blower assy off and use a single 4bbl and intake to slow it down.

Just a thought, maybe tech would have some insight. You may want to consider getting one of your local track inspectors to come right to your place and give the car a good going over and tell you what you will need to do to the car before you would be allowed in competition with it. We have a tech inspector here locally (IHRA) who makes house calls for gas money and an extra burger on the grille !!!