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Thread: 32 Duece steel frame roadster lt1 engine build
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Finally got it rolling. Lots of research and lots of help from Don at DA34guy to get to this point. Definitely a cool moment being able to roll this thing outside for a picture.
    Last edited by Free07110; 02-18-2018 at 07:29 AM.

  2. #32
    DA34GUY's Avatar
    DA34GUY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32Roadster/always buildin sumthin
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    Ya nailed it Brian.
    Free07110 likes this.
    When I get to where I was goin, I forgot why I went there>

  3. #33
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Whats your plan for exhaust routing?? Stock LT1 routing has left side pipe from manifold going under oil pan to join right side which does leave you space on left side frame for master cylinder, etc--------

  4. #34
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Whats your plan for exhaust routing?? Stock LT1 routing has left side pipe from manifold going under oil pan to join right side which does leave you space on left side frame for master cylinder, etc--------
    I will leave the exhaust routing to the exhaust shop. Should be room to run dual exhaust pipe thru out frame cross member to the rear.

  5. #35
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    With the Ford 8.8 having a 4 inch pinion offset--------will you have good clearance in that hoop?? Picture angle probably making it look ??????
    and can you easily lengthen the cross link on the rear end???????

  6. #36
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    With the Ford 8.8 having a 4 inch pinion offset--------will you have good clearance in that hoop?? Picture angle probably making it look ??????
    and can you easily lengthen the cross link on the rear end???????
    Pinion off set is 2” from center. As long as Trans and rearend drive line angles are parallel to each other and never intersect then you won’t have issues. U joints will do there job. A lot of vehicles are off set from the factory to clear gas tanks and other stuff. Not uncommon to see on vehicles today.

    I’m assuming you are referring to the pan hard bar on the rearend. I could of ran it to the other side to lengthen but decided not to. Panhard bar is almost 20” long and no more than 1.5” drop from mounts. Most panhard bars I have research recommends 20” bar with no more than 2” drop over the length of the bar.
    DA34GUY and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  7. #37
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    That looks very nice!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  8. #38
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Attachment 71377Attachment 71378Attachment 71379Slow progress is still progress. Trying hard to get the mock up done by fall and then blow it apart for paint. Rodwell windshield is next to install and just finishing up loose ends.
    Dave Severson, NTFDAY and 39Deluxe like this.

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