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Thread: 32 Duece steel frame roadster lt1 engine build
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    I would suggest supporting the frame in 3 (THREE) places so as not to induce any twist into it while doing body mounting-if you use 4 places you will twist it even if minor and create issues with door gaps etc

  2. #17
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    Depending on the amount of twist in the body, it can and will induce some stress into the frame no matter how many places it is supported, "IF" those locations aren't anchored to maintain a set elevation.

    How much "perfection" are you chasing? Personally - If chasing to that level, I'd mount the chassis in 4 points minimum, close to the body mounting locations, and anchor the chassis as secure as possible. whether that anchor be the floor of the shop or a frame jig. A laser level can be used to verify "flatness" of the chassis probably down to a 32nd of an inch.

  3. #18
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Actually if you want to do it that way----it needs to be at the points where the suspension will be-maybe even with tires /wheels on it.

  4. #19
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Once I getting a rolling chassis I will definitely be looking help to mount and shim body to get it right. I will post pics when I get to that point.

  5. #20
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Debating on I beam from speedway 47" or a Pete jake I beam 48". Can anyone tell me the big difference about a inch difference? No fenders so no clearance issues. The cost difference is around $300 for a chrome beam. Any input would help me thanks

  6. #21
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    If you're going to buy a chromed axle, ask some questions and find out if the piece was baked to remove free hydrogen atoms from the metal following plating. It should be done within hours of plating. If it was not baked, the results could be fatal when it breaks. Read this about hydrogen embrittlement.....
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement

    .
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  7. #22
    rumrumm's Avatar
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    In addition, I would opt for one that is forged rather than cast.
    Hotrod46 likes this.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  8. #23
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    just went through this with p&j, no you will not notice 1" difference. Generally a hiboy uses a wider axle than a fendered car. My axle on the ride i am building is narrow but with my wheel offset its track width is close to the same as the car i measured with the wide axle. Yes forged is better, but currently socals is and p&j is not, are they having any problems with the malleable, absolutely not. My concern is more in the lines of "country of origin". I can tell you on the coupe i am building its nose heavy with a hemi, p&j said forget what you heard or read on the internet, only go with a tube axle for the weight its gonna have, so make your own assumption what tbe strongest axle is. dont know about speedways axles, but i havent heard anything good or bad but with my situation strength is needed, if yours is a sbc i would say no problems, but p&j is 45 miles from me and kinda handy and preferred by me . check and see some of the speedway stufg doesn't have perch holes and has welded on brackets which i dont care for unless the axle is suicided. best of luck matt
    Why is mine so big and yours so small, Chrysler FirePower

  9. #24
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Finally got front end parts. Running Pete and jake 48" I beam. Speedway monoleaf and misc hardware from speedway. This frame is deuce steel frame with a model a front crossmember. They supposedly run custom made radius rods. I did order a set of cheap plain radius rods to help with mock up and to determine measurements. I have a view questions so hopefully some of you guys can help out.

    I have read that positive caster needs to be around 8-10 degrees during setup and after frame is on the ground with wheels it should be around 5-6 degrees depending on rake, does this sound about right?

    As you can see in the picture the frame is already setup for holes to mount radius rods. I am short by a few inches. Current setup is monoleaf on bottom and 4 spacers up inside cross member. Wondering if it is a options to raise the leaf within cross member and put spacers under the leaf. This would raise the up and draw my radius rods closer to the mounting locations. Thoughts on this idea? IMG_0632.jpgIMG_0637.jpgIMG_0639.jpg
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  10. #25
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sorry about picture angles. Uploaded from my phone.
    Last edited by Free07110; 05-21-2017 at 09:16 AM.

  11. #26
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Well got custom hairpin rods made and front end is mocked. Still not completely tight and rear end is just mocked up to inspect.
    Looking for input to make sure i measure everything right.
    Measurementsi need to do-
    1. Measure both I beam ends to frame(same location on each side) on both sides to make sure I beam is true.
    2. Once I beam is set then measure center of hubs front to rear, then X pattern measurement to each hub to make sure axles are center.
    Am I missing anything else for measurements? Caster is around 6-7 degrees right now. Should I have more at this stage or is that something To adjust later after I have a rolling chassis and can factor in ride height?
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  12. #27
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    More pics. Some reason I load them all at once
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  13. #28
    Free07110 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Input anyone?

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Free07110 View Post
    Well got custom hairpin rods made and front end is mocked. Still not completely tight and rear end is just mocked up to inspect.
    Looking for input to make sure i measure everything right.
    Measurementsi need to do-
    1. Measure both I beam ends to frame(same location on each side) on both sides to make sure I beam is true.
    2. Once I beam is set then measure center of hubs front to rear, then X pattern measurement to each hub to make sure axles are center.
    Am I missing anything else for measurements? Caster is around 6-7 degrees right now. Should I have more at this stage or is that something To adjust later after I have a rolling chassis and can factor in ride height?
    I believe you are on the right path, It sounds like you are doing everything to make sure it's square and true, And the caster is good and yes, you'll need to verify it as you progress in the fabrication.

    And thanks for all the pics, they do help.

  15. #30
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    A thing that I do on mock up suspension stuff-I figure out suspension height , tire radius, etc and then make/install some tubes with ends that mount to the shock absorber mounts at the length of ride ht----that keeps suspension static points at heights I'm working around and want to keep constant-------

    I then support the chassis/frame frome that area at the rear and one point centered at front spring mount point in the front so there isn't any cross bind in the body mounting

    Rule of thumb to remember that is helpful in navigating the world is one in sixty equals one degree--it also works with suspension serup----drive shaft/u-joint angles, caster/camber angles, etc--------

    A good point for referance on axle squareness (front and/or rear) is a central point at trans mount crossmember--------

    I also use mostly 9 inch ford rears so I have a pumpkin with a pinion shaft housing set up for diameter of engine main bearings and use a thickwalled tube that diameter to establish drive line angles---and that dummy engine with that 3/4 wall tube is heavy but very stabile-----
    39Deluxe likes this.

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