1932 Ford Coupe Project Thread

[34_40]

Nice pile o' parts! I see you chose the same spray guns as I . I was happy with them and hope you're the same. Thanks for all the photos.

[Dave Severson]

Lots of nice stuff, but that BBF is still the best feature of the car!!!!

[patfromjersey]

I bought those headlight shock mount brackets from this place 1928-1948 FORD LIGHTS Scroll down to part number BD-3375-S. They are a nice heavy piece and put those speedway 7" lamps in the right spot.

Today I smoothed the holes for the speedo and tach with a Dremel and little sanding rolls. The other gauges I used a 2 5/8 holesaw (much easier ). I must say, it came out pretty good. I love this instrument panel! I reused the 5" speedometer and tach from my Fairlane, and I have 2 5/8" gauges for the rest. I'm so glad they all fit, and they just made the "smiley" bar behind the panel. The switches left to right are; ignition, headlights, wiper, blower. I added two green LED lights for the turn signals, and a blue LED light for the high beam. The shift light for the tack fit perfect in between the speedo and tach. I'm going to install a bracket off the "smiley" bar to the shift light bracket. I also installed the Pontiac 50's style LED tail lights and license plate bracket, with LED light too. I bought it for my trailer awhile ago, but it didn't fit. I'm glad it didn't go to waste. Thanks guys for the good words. It felt so good to get working on it the past two days. I can't wait until next weekend.

[Dave Severson]

Good looking dash, very nicely done!

[patfromjersey]

Thanks Dave! This is going to be the first thing that I paint. I don't want to wire it up, and then have to take it all apart again. I'm going to have connectors for the panel, so I can just unplugged and remove the panel when I want. It was so nice working on it the past two days!

[rspears]

Pat,
One thing I ran into - I bought a multi-pin connector from Radio Shack for my dash, using seven of nine positions for power, ground and signals. My tach started reading low, and I found that the connector was adding resistance to the circuit. Once I cycled the connector, the tach reading improved, but still not right, and I lost my oil pressure signal. Ended up cutting out the big nine-pin connector, and using individual M/F spade connectors for all connections. My lesson learned is that the connectors on those bulk multi-pin connectors need to be soldered to be good.

[jerry clayton]

the Radio Shack stuff might work for radios, but for automotive, aircraft, military,etc, use the good stuff

Oh, yeh---what are your plans for the rear frame horns???? and show us pics of the drivers foot area when you get the pedals and steering in---

[Mike52]

Pat and Roger, Jerry is right about the Radio Shack connectors. I like to use Deutsch connectors, they are available in many sizes from 2 wire and up, they are sealed which makes them excellent for a wet environment and they are one of the easiest connectors to disassemble if repairs are necessary. The downside is they require a very small, tight crimp on the terminal that the average home hobbyist wire crimp tool will not provide. Some of the Deutsch crimp tools can be very expensive but a good crimper can be picked up for $30 on ebay. I use an MSD crimp tool and the Deutsch die from Summit. In the past I've ordered the connectors from Batts Racing but I'm sure there are other sources such as Del City and others.

Mike

[rspears]

Pat and Roger, Jerry is right about the Radio Shack connectors. I like to use Deutsch connectors, they are available in many sizes from 2 wire and up, they are sealed which makes them excellent for a wet environment and they are one of the easiest connectors to disassemble if repairs are necessary. The downside is they require a very small, tight crimp on the terminal that the average home hobbyist wire crimp tool will not provide. Some of the Deutsch crimp tools can be very expensive but a good crimper can be picked up for $30 on ebay. I use an MSD crimp tool and the Deutsch die from Summit. In the past I've ordered the connectors from Batts Racing but I'm sure there are other sources such as Del City and others.

Mike

Mike,
I picked up a set like this (not this exact set, but just like it) but I'm not sure it does the type crimp you're calling out. It does have the dies to "roll" the barrel sides into themselves. S&G Tool Aid 18960 Quick Change Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit

[Mike52]

Roger, from your description (and a look at the link) I'd say you've got it.

Mike

[rspears]

Roger, from your description (and a look at the link) I'd say you've got it.

Mike

Mike,
Do you solder the connectors after crimp, or does the crimp alone work OK for you?

Roger

[Mike52]

I know this is subject for heated debate but if the crimp is done properly, soldering isn't necessary. To answer your question regarding me specifically, at the Deutsch pin (terminal), I crimp only.

Mike

[jerry clayton]

Crimp only--if you solder , the connection will fail as it is then too stiff and will break all the strands of the wire instead of flexing----aircraft are crimped

[patfromjersey]

Thank you for the link to those nice connectors! That's exactly what I'm looking for. I didn't plan on Radio Shack stuff, because I want them to look and function like a factory connector. Thanks again!

[NTFDAY]

Crimp only--if you solder , the connection will fail as it is then too stiff and will break all the strands of the wire instead of flexing----aircraft are crimped

I hate to disagree with you Jerry but, all of the radar connectors on the DC-9 are soldered as are a few others and a lot of the connectors on the old A-4 were soldered, military requirement, with others being crimped. Douglas used Amphenol and Burndy for the most part, at least when I worked there they did. I believe the connectors Roger was referring to are Molex and I have used them extensively for various projects where moisture was not a consideration. They will hold 16 gauge wire easily but 14 gauge is pushing the envelope. I always solder and have never had a problem but then again I was military certified to solder.
BTW, FWIW DC-8's were full of splices while DC-9's and 10's used bulkhead connectors.