Thread: Opinion - wiring a 1 wire alternator

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I'm using a 1 wire alternator which means the charge wire goes directly to the battery. But, that's a very long run, so since I'm using the new and directly wired Ford SVT starter am considering using that always hot post on it and with a 1ga wire back to the battery, felt that I could take advantage of that terminal. Any opinions? I'm sitting staring at the wire.....

Check this out it may help you too decide. I hope they don't mind me linking this from another site.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

Richard

I have had a powermaster one wire on my 57 for about 7 years and no problems. The following year I put one on my 34 and within a year the internal regulator went berserk, over charged and blew up the battery, and scorched a lot of wires. Lucky no fire. Oh, and when it happened I was out in the eastern Kentucky, 125 miles from normal civilization.

When I got the regulator and wiring fixed, I had it converted to a 3 wire. that was 6 years ago and no problems since.

Therefore I offer no opinions as to your choices, only my little tale of two alternators.

Originally Posted by ford2custom

Check this out it may help you too decide. I hope they don't mind me linking this from another site.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

Richard

Richard - I have already read that little essay. Unfortunately, I should have read it a couple of years ago BEFORE I put out $165 for the 100 amp Powermaster which means - one wire for now.

Bob,
I think( financially ) that is unless this thing can wire up both ways, I'm committed at least for a while

Originally Posted by mopar34

I have had a powermaster one wire on my 57 for about 7 years and no problems. The following year I put one on my 34 and within a year the internal regulator went berserk, over charged and blew up the battery, and scorched a lot of wires. Lucky no fire. Oh, and when it happened I was out in the eastern Kentucky, 125 miles from normal civilization.

When I got the regulator and wiring fixed, I had it converted to a 3 wire. that was 6 years ago and no problems since.

Therefore I offer no opinions as to your choices, only my little tale of two alternators.

A few weeks back my cousins 94 Ford F-150 went beserk and boiled out the battery and pegged all the gauges and popped a few fuses. The alternator was suspected and he had the garage replace the battery, alternator & regulator. Trucks got over 100K for miles and even more hours just idling. He spends a lot of hours on frost watch at night, that's how he noticed the problem. Sitting alongside a cranberry bog watching the temp and he sees the tach go to the max. Then the radio died so he shut down the truck and later it wouldn't restart, the battery was dry. I've got a one wire alternator and so far it's okay. I guess if the regulator "sticks", it don't matter if it's 1 wire or 3. IMHO...

Originally Posted by IC2

I think( financially ) that is unless this thing can wire up both ways, I'm committed at least for a while

I took my one wire alternator to a local Alternator/Starter motor repair shop and had it converted back to a three wire. Cheap and no problems.

The wiring is still very simple. The large wire goes from the BAT terminal on the alternator and then goes to the BAT terminal on the starter solenoid. This is for either the three wire or one wire hookup. For the three wire; the exciter wire (#1 terminal on the alternator) goes thru either a diode or a charging light (idiot light) and then to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch. The wire from the #2 terminal on the alternator is a short jumper wire that connects to the BAT terminal on the alternator. It is also a good idea to connect a short wire from the ground post of the alternator to the engine block.

Originally Posted by Frisco

I took my one wire alternator to a local Alternator/Starter motor repair shop and had it converted back to a three wire. Cheap and no problems.

If you hear me laughing, it isn't you - it's the decided lack of that kind of business in my NY Capital District area

(you seem to be following me and my quest for an answer - I know, bad me, posting the same in 2 places )

Originally Posted by IC2

(you seem to be following me and my quest for an answer - I know, bad me, posting the same in 2 places )

Not following. I go to three Hot Rodding bulletin boards and post at all. You just asked (about the three wire conversion) or commented here that I thought I could best answer here.

I believe the conversion involves swapping the internal regulator and that's all.

Originally Posted by Frisco

Not following. I go to three Hot Rodding bulletin boards and post at all. You just asked (about the three wire conversion) or commented here that I thought I could best answer here.

I believe the conversion involves swapping the internal regulator and that's all.

You really dont need to swap out the regulator. I have done this many times and it works great. Run your single post battery wire straight to the battery. Get a connector with a short pigtail that would plug into the regulator. Now connect those two wires together. No need to replace the regulator...and Only one wire need to run to the alternator.

Originally Posted by IC2

If you hear me laughing, it isn't you - it's the decided lack of that kind of business in my NY Capital District area

(you seem to be following me and my quest for an answer - I know, bad me, posting the same in 2 places )

I know of 1 place in Oneonta, bit of a drive but they do that stuff... W.J Rowe

Fww, if you can get away with a 65 amp alternator, the Pinto is reasonable in cost, easy to find and not overly large.

An external regulator is required and when they're in a cool place - under dash or under seat - they last a long time.

Less than $50. invested in both alt and reg including tax.

They come with a single groove pulley, but it's easy to convert to a double groove.
Far as I know, any Ford double groove pulley works on the Pinto alternator.

Wiring is easy as well.

I've kind of done a 180 on my thinking about 1 wire alternators. I had been a defender of them, saying all the BS about how they can't work is just that, BS. I had one on my Jeep for years, and also on several boats, and they worked well. However, I now have to admit the Powermaster one on my current T is a slight disappointment.

Oh, it works and the battery stays charged (it is a 100 amp model) but at idle the voltmeter gets down a little until I touch the gas and then it will pop up a little more. Highway speeds are fine, 14 volts or thereabouts. I can actually watch my headlights dim at traffic lights, and brighten when I increase the rpms. That surprised me, as the Jeep never did that. However, the one on the Jeep was a marine alternator that I adapted, so maybe this problem is just a Powermaster issue?

But otherwise, it is fine.

Don

I just loved the mad electric dissertation. I think I finally understand the three wire alternator.

To Frisco: Yes, your jumper wire works fine, but you loose the advantage of running the sense wire to the central junction. If your wiring harness has no voltage drop, then it's not an issue.

I do like the idea of having the 'charging cushion' for recharging a weak battery. Say, on the ride home after you left your lights on. Done that more than once.

I gotta rethink the wiring on my 64C10. ( one wire ) I have a heavy guage wire from the alternator to the battery, plus the stock charge wire. I did that primarily because my electric fuel pump, HEI, and fan all go direct from the battery.

I've kind of done a 180 on my thinking about 1 wire alternators. I had been a defender of them, saying all the BS about how they can't work is just that, BS. I had one on my Jeep for years, and also on several boats, and they worked well. However, I now have to admit the Powermaster one on my current T is a slight disappointment.

Oh, it works and the battery stays charged (it is a 100 amp model) but at idle the voltmeter gets down a little until I touch the gas and then it will pop up a little more. Highway speeds are fine, 14 volts or thereabouts. I can actually watch my headlights dim at traffic lights, and brighten when I increase the rpms. That surprised me, as the Jeep never did that. However, the one on the Jeep was a marine alternator that I adapted, so maybe this problem is just a Powermaster issue?

But otherwise, it is fine.

Don

You may have a alternator speed issue at idle. Like so many of the "underdrive kits" they trade off keeping the alternator output at a higher level at a lower rpm for a couple of top end horse power. Street Rodder magazine did an awesome article a couple years ago on this very topic. I don't remember exactly when but I'm sure some others may. If you can locate a handheld Tach and measure the pulley speed, Powermaster can tell you if it's turning fast enough at idle. They also provide a tag that shows output for a given rpm. Did you keep that tag? It may prove helpful!