Thread: Opinion - wiring a 1 wire alternator

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Originally Posted by IC2

I think( financially ) that is unless this thing can wire up both ways, I'm committed at least for a while

I took my one wire alternator to a local Alternator/Starter motor repair shop and had it converted back to a three wire. Cheap and no problems.

The wiring is still very simple. The large wire goes from the BAT terminal on the alternator and then goes to the BAT terminal on the starter solenoid. This is for either the three wire or one wire hookup. For the three wire; the exciter wire (#1 terminal on the alternator) goes thru either a diode or a charging light (idiot light) and then to the ACC terminal on the ignition switch. The wire from the #2 terminal on the alternator is a short jumper wire that connects to the BAT terminal on the alternator. It is also a good idea to connect a short wire from the ground post of the alternator to the engine block.

Originally Posted by Frisco

I took my one wire alternator to a local Alternator/Starter motor repair shop and had it converted back to a three wire. Cheap and no problems.

If you hear me laughing, it isn't you - it's the decided lack of that kind of business in my NY Capital District area

(you seem to be following me and my quest for an answer - I know, bad me, posting the same in 2 places )

Originally Posted by IC2

(you seem to be following me and my quest for an answer - I know, bad me, posting the same in 2 places )

Not following. I go to three Hot Rodding bulletin boards and post at all. You just asked (about the three wire conversion) or commented here that I thought I could best answer here.

I believe the conversion involves swapping the internal regulator and that's all.

Originally Posted by Frisco

Not following. I go to three Hot Rodding bulletin boards and post at all. You just asked (about the three wire conversion) or commented here that I thought I could best answer here.

I believe the conversion involves swapping the internal regulator and that's all.

You really dont need to swap out the regulator. I have done this many times and it works great. Run your single post battery wire straight to the battery. Get a connector with a short pigtail that would plug into the regulator. Now connect those two wires together. No need to replace the regulator...and Only one wire need to run to the alternator.

Originally Posted by IC2

If you hear me laughing, it isn't you - it's the decided lack of that kind of business in my NY Capital District area

(you seem to be following me and my quest for an answer - I know, bad me, posting the same in 2 places )

I know of 1 place in Oneonta, bit of a drive but they do that stuff... W.J Rowe

Fww, if you can get away with a 65 amp alternator, the Pinto is reasonable in cost, easy to find and not overly large.

An external regulator is required and when they're in a cool place - under dash or under seat - they last a long time.

Less than $50. invested in both alt and reg including tax.

They come with a single groove pulley, but it's easy to convert to a double groove.
Far as I know, any Ford double groove pulley works on the Pinto alternator.

Wiring is easy as well.

I've kind of done a 180 on my thinking about 1 wire alternators. I had been a defender of them, saying all the BS about how they can't work is just that, BS. I had one on my Jeep for years, and also on several boats, and they worked well. However, I now have to admit the Powermaster one on my current T is a slight disappointment.

Oh, it works and the battery stays charged (it is a 100 amp model) but at idle the voltmeter gets down a little until I touch the gas and then it will pop up a little more. Highway speeds are fine, 14 volts or thereabouts. I can actually watch my headlights dim at traffic lights, and brighten when I increase the rpms. That surprised me, as the Jeep never did that. However, the one on the Jeep was a marine alternator that I adapted, so maybe this problem is just a Powermaster issue?

But otherwise, it is fine.

Don