Thread: Any disadvantages to running battery cable & fuel line inside frame???

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Go to Home Depot and get a garden hose. Cut to length and run the fuel line in one length and the cable in another length. No problem.

....ah ha, good idea! Thank You Tech! Bill

I do the same thing tech does.

Fwiw, I use clear PVC tubing from NAPA and run several wires inside.
A few shots of silicon lube help get the wire through the PVC if you're filling it to capacity wire-wise.

Do the same with the battery cable.

Run the batt cable down one rail and the fuel line down the other.

Grommet entry and exit points as well as making sure the grommets will stay put.

I like the fuel line to be OUTSIDE the rail ... where I can see it and repair it if it leaks ... I also find that if I install a inline fuel filter about half way, I can get from the rear to the front of a 32 with only the fuel filter as a junction. My parts store has 6 foot and 7 foot lines of 3/8th tubing.





I always install the battery under the front seat ... where the battery cables do not have to be very long to make it to the starter ... and I always install a cut 0ff switch ... so installing the cables inside the frame rails ... is not really a thing I do.

Just my nickel and my old timey curmudgeon way of doing things.

....Thanks C9x, I'm going to do it the way you did it. Tomorrow I'm borrowing my brother in laws pressure washer to wash off the frame {yeah when your car blows up it just never seems to do it after we leave the car wash, huh?}. Then I'll drill the frame & install the battery cable in a plastic hose. And move the battery to the trunk. I then need to buy my fuel line & install it. My existing fuel lines not very large so I'll need a bigger one anyway....

Thanks Duece, At some point I want to run my car at the drags & I need the battery in the trunk to do so. Also I need to run 2 x 2 tubing between my frame rails to mount my seat & seat belts to. This is my understanding of the rule book in so far as what I have to due because of my fiberglass body. So this is the main reason I want to run everything in the frame {to give me room}. And I will have my fuel filter & fuel pump behind my trunk mounted fuel cell do it'll just be 1 length of fuel line in the frame. Speaking of which I need to check & make sure that having the fuel line & battery cables in the frame is acceptable for NHRA!!!

Thanks again, ;0 Bill

Originally Posted by billlsbird

....Thanks C9x, I'm going to do it the way you did it. Tomorrow I'm borrowing my brother in laws pressure washer to wash off the frame {yeah when your car blows up it just never seems to do it after we leave the car wash, huh?}. Then I'll drill the frame & install the battery cable in a plastic hose. And move the battery to the trunk. I then need to buy my fuel line & install it. My existing fuel lines not very large so I'll need a bigger one anyway....

Thanks Duece, At some point I want to run my car at the drags & I need the battery in the trunk to do so. Also I need to run 2 x 2 tubing between my frame rails to mount my seat & seat belts to. This is my understanding of the rule book in so far as what I have to due because of my fiberglass body. So this is the main reason I want to run everything in the frame {to give me room}. And I will have my fuel filter & fuel pump behind my trunk mounted fuel cell do it'll just be 1 length of fuel line in the frame. Speaking of which I need to check & make sure that having the fuel line & battery cables in the frame is acceptable for NHRA!!!

Thanks again, ;0 Bill

Nothing in the rules about the running of cables or fuel lines inside the frame rails. As far as the battery mount, the whole idea is to prevent hydrogen from being introduced into the driver's compartment and to prevent the battery from being thrown from the car in the event of upset. The battery must be secured with minumum 3/8" diameter fasteners. I used allthread on all my builds. It's cheap and easy. Just double-nut it or locknut it on the bottom and use large flat washers to prevent pull-through. If the battery is open to the driver's compartment, some means must be used to isolate it. Either a bulkhead of minimum 0.024" or 0.032" aluminum or mount the battery in a sealed and accepted battery box, either poly like a Moroso box or aluminum. Some fellows will mount the box to the car and then place the battery in the box without securement. NO. Secure the battery to the vehicle, then cover it with the box. You will have to include a master cut-off switch that kills all power and also kills the motor. Sometimes there is a problem with the alternator back-feeding the system even after you shut the switch off and allowing the motor to continue to run. Painless offers a fix......
High Amp Alternator Shutdown Relay
http://www.painlessperformance.com/M...nstruction.pdf

I run everything inside the frame. I make these little plates and put bulkhead fittings in them so they are removable for maintenance. This is what it looks like as it's being done. Then on the outside I cut windows in the frame to access the fittings for assembly, then they are covered with flush mounted plates with screws so it's not noticeable when I'm done.
Ken