Thread: Peek - a - boo ! Guess wheroo?

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IF you are one of those folks who HAVE TO OWN a original one ...



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OLD-O...36738547QQrdZ1

Originally Posted by Deuce

IF you are one of those folks who HAVE TO OWN a original one ...



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OLD-O...36738547QQrdZ1

Yep, that's the one we used to pay like $ 2.99 for, maybe less. I have one squirrelled away, and will probably use it on the T. However, I COULD use a second one...........................................

Don

So exactely how old is this light anyways? What circa? If it is old enough , would it then be wired for 6 volts - would it work on a 12 volt system?

As for me, I am sticking with my new light, sure don't want to redrill again LOL.

SoCal has a very good looking license light.

$29. if I remember right.
It's scaled down a touch, but very similar to what Deuce shows in the pic above.

It's pictured on the SoCal site.

Thanks Highboy and Duce,
If I still had my chopped 5 window (Duce) I wouldn't need one because it had
one. This is for a friends 56 Big window so I'll go to Moss in Orange, it's only
a couple of miles in Old Orange. Thanks again for the info. Don't think the 56
requires the ebay deal.
Ron

Fwiw - you can change license plate mounting bolt patterns without drilling new holes in the body.

#10 size machine screws are a good way to go, but if you have 1/4" bolts, they work ok.

Get yourself a piece of 18 gage stainless sheet metal for a backing plate.
Have the sheet metal shop cut it to the exact size of the license plate to be used. (Unless you have the proper tools to cut one yourself - tin snips don't work well on the heavy gage - .063 thick - stainless.)

Round the corners of the stainless backing plate to match the license plates corners.

Drill the backing plate to match the license plate.

Drill the backing plate to match the body mount holes.
Use a countersink to set up the backing plate body mounting holes for FlatHead (FH) bolts.
You don't have to get the countersink so deep that the bolt heads are perfectly flush, but you can if you wish.
Considering the thin material of the backing plate, close is good enough.
As long as the FH bolt sinks down into the backing plate.

FH allen bolts are a nice way to go, these are easily found in stainless as well as Phillips drive - and maybe Torx nowadays - but stay away from the single slot FH bolts.
Easy to slip and ruin the paint with these.

You'll also want some spacer buttons to space the backing plate/license plate combo away from the body a little bit so the combo isn't riding on the paint.
Aluminum works well here.
Spacer buttons are easily made on a lathe, but can also be easily made by a determined and thinking person with a hacksaw, square, drill press, mandrel and file.

To gain a little room, cut the license plate mounting bolts to length and use a pal/jam nut to retain the plate.
Pal/jam nuts are simply thin nuts that are available at any hardware store.


The mandrel is nothing more than a headless bolt with two nuts to hold the workpiece (button in this case) so you can clean it up with a file and give it a brushed finish.
If you buff the buttons to a shiny finish, use the mandrel to hold the button otherwise the button will get grabbed and tossed by the buffing wheel . . . probably into the darkest corner of your garage where it will never be found....

Depending on where you mount your license plate you can use an oversize stainless backing plate to lower the plate if necessary.
You can just see the one on my roadster in the pic.

Stainless license plate backers are useful in the front as well.

The one just barely seen in this pic raises the plate up from behind the front spreader bar.

Along with gaining the desired height, the backing plates keep the license plate from getting bent etc..
License plates are thin and easily bent and if you mount them without a backup they'll soon be leaning back due to air pressure on a flat surface.

well nuts work good if you can not get to the back side of a panel.i use them all the time the one i use are steel and you put them in with a gun that looks like a pop rivet gun

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well nuts work good if you can not get to the back side of a panel.i use them all the time the one i use are steel and you put them in with a gun that looks like a pop rivet gun

I had heard about these for years, and never took the time to check them out. Just recently, my Son bought the tool and a bunch of #10 size and 1/4 x 20 size inserts, and these are the coolest thing since sliced bread.

Pat is right, all you do is drill an appropriately sized hole, insert the threaded insert (It is like a pop rivet with threads on the inside) and use the tool to squeeze and deform the insert so it holds in place. The inserts even have ribs around the outside to dig in to keep them from ever spinning loose. Then you can simply screw a machine screw into the threaded hole. Great for attaching stuff to a blind area where you can't get to the backside.

Here is a picture of one I inserted under my dash roll bar to hold my switchplate in place. (No, it isn't centered in the piece, I had to do that for clearance issues )

Don

Alternative nomenclature for those seaching for it is nutsert.

.....I got these on Ebay. From what I see I LOVE 'em ,,,, I'm going to try to attach a picture, which hasn't worked before...... Bill

ps, Wow I'm proud of myself Mr. no savy computer wizzer finally attached something .,.... Anyway, these are Dietz 820-D's which the discription said where a little smaller than the Guide 682 C's. 7 1/4" in Diameter & 5 1/2" deep... item # 140037909953. I hope I didn't pay to much {$255!!!} but i fell in love with 'em so it didn't matter at the time!!! bill

....another picture.... also called CW Moss and ordered a license plate with light. Almost bid on the one on Ebay but ***BRAND NEW always outwieghts original when things either look the same or look pretty much the same.... Bill

***with the exception of an original body or frame .... In this case, original would beat out 'brand new'.....

i will add when using the well nuts/ nutserts you want to make sure they pull up. if used on tubing they may hit the side of the in side of the tubing side wall and will not pull up then it can turn loose or fall out. i allways look at the inside of the well before i drawl the up with the gun the threads should be up to the top less the thickness of the wall. thickness must be check to so they can work with the wall thickness and remove all burrs with a deburring tool hand held or a die grinder with a stone. if the burrs are not cleaned from the back of the hole for the wellnut/ nutsert this will give a fake pull up or no draw up at all then fallout or turn

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i will add when using the well nuts/ nutserts you want to make sure they pull up. if used on tubing they may hit the side of the in side of the tubing side wall and will not pull up then it can turn loose or fall out. i allways look at the inside of the well before i drawl the up with the gun the threads should be up to the top less the thickness of the wall. thickness must be check to so they can work with the wall thickness and remove all burrs with a deburring tool hand held or a die grinder with a stone. if the burrs are not cleaned from the back of the hole for the wellnut/ nutsert this will give a fake pull up or no draw up at all then fallout or turn

yeah, and I would imagine the smaller the tubing, the more this is likely to happen..... zzz

Originally Posted by billlsbird

yeah, and I would imagine the smaller the tubing, the more this is likely to happen..... zzz

no that is not allways it. it is the right angle hitting the side of the nut that keeps it from expanding so if it is way off set it can not expand and yes it must have room inside the tubing to expand