Thread: Got a 32 and have questions about it

Tweet

Very nice! The B 4-cyl had a slightly better cam than the Model-A but still had babbit main bearings, so don't get too frisky with high compression unless you improve the oiling and main bearings. Still "high compression" for these engines is about 6:1. Plenty of repro parts are available for '32s and you really don't have to do much. Check out Lebaron-Bonney on the Internet for original style upholstery. To be honest I thought discoveries of this sort were long gone but of course family heirlooms are still possible. One thing is that you can improve the engine internally without it showing on the outside since the AACA people have developed a number of parts that "look" stock. I believe that the AACA rules allow you to chrome sheet metal parts that are stock and that gives some restored engines a bit of flash. I know there is at least one head casting which is basically the standard head milled about 1/8", but don't mill yours that much, it may not have enough thickness on the bottom. The 6:1 head is a recasting with the combustion chamber lowered in the mold by about 1/8"; the combustion chambers are like soup bowls! Another worry is to check out the water pump, it had to be "packed" every so often, but it will leak or squeal when it needs attention. As far as being afraid to change it, that is your decision but if you make changes which can be reversed it will keep the value of the car. I don't know your economic potential, but now that we know it is a 4-cyl, I would start saving up for an OHV conversion like a CRAGAR which I believe are still available on a waiting list basis. The last time I checked, a CRAGAR head or similar OHV head it was about $4000, but may be more now. When is all said and done, I think you could add a nostalgic OHV conversion that is reversible along with a rebuild of the block for less than changing over to a modern SBC, auto trans, modern rear etc. As far as the brakes go, the early '40 brake backing plates can be made to work but have to be hand adjusted, the '42-'48 brakes are self adjusting as I recall but maybe the best brakes are from the Ford F150 pickup from the early '50s since they were larger. The hole in the middle of the backing plate is larger than the A axle housing by a small amount, but I don't remember whether tha B rear was the same size. Some folks used old piston rings to fill in the gap and center the backing plate but there are still kits available from Speedway for less than $20 to provide the spacer rings, at least for Model-As. Well it is your project and the temptation to chop/channel may be there but note the relative ratio of height with the stock wheels. If you use smaller wheels then it looks too high or if you chop and keep big wheels it looks crunched so maybe you should play around with software and remember the proportion idea. Personnally I would keep it stock except for engine improvements and hydraulic brakes. I have said more than enough, you luckydog!

In edit mode, I would like to see a close up picture of the stock dash and instruments in the oval case. My Bebops 'glass body has a '32 style dash and when you look at the fiberglass at a slight angle you can see where the oval of the original instrument cluster was and I would like to go back to that, although with a five gauge set. One last comment is that there was also a Model-C 4 cyl engine built by Ford up through 1934 and they had a very desireable counterweighted crankshaft and occasionally you may see a "C-crank" for sale in Hemmings Motor News or maybe even on E-Bay. Maybe you better subscribe to Hemmings Motor News and then you will realize that you are in really high cotton with an original Deuce Coupe! Counterweights can be added to a B-crank or even an A-crank but that requires expense and the skill of an experienced shop used to working on old engines.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder