I have a similar lunati hydraulic voodoo roller cam similar to that one you posted that you got and I run mine in a chevy s10 with a turbo 350 and 3.42 rear gears and I cruise at about 2400 rpm at 55 mph.Mine is 219/227@50 510/515 lift 1.5 ratio and with dart shp heads with dual springs for hydraulic roller cams.

When I first got my chevy s10 I had 4.11 gears in the rear and a 700r4 transmission and I pulled the same rpm's at 55 mph. So depending on your rear gearing you can run it with a 700r4 but the key is the rpm range to keep the engine happy in.

That cam would not like to be cruising at 55 mph and only 2000 rpm and even though the cam I have is pretty mild and does not even have a lope at idle it does run good in a daily driver but the key is to have your engine in the proper rpm band or it will be a dog and no fun to drive and even worse in mileage.

Trust me I have been there and done that with cam stuff not being matched and ending up pulling it out and going smaller. You always want to have it matched up right the first time. Its better to be slightly on the smaller side then to have slightly too much on the bigger side. When I do my builds I try to leave a little on the table so as to not have a little to much to have a headache with. With aggressive cams on vortec heads its best to have them machined for screw in studs and good seals etc as the pressed in studs with cams having over 500 plus lift and fast ramp rates can pull them out over time.

Stock vortec heads don't work well with modern fast ramp rate cams without doing some changes to them and screw in studs are a good option or at least I have read you can get a tool and you can pin the studs as well.