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Thread: 350 sbc Year
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    zippi's Avatar
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    350 sbc Year

     



    I have a 350 sbc in my 1937 Ford pickup. I can just barely see the numbers on the back of the block on the passengers side but can not make it out. Is there any other way to find out the year and other info on this engine?
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    Last edited by zippi; 04-20-2017 at 04:26 AM.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    There are two main identifiers on the blocks for Gen I Chevy motors. One of them I could almost read from your photo if my eyes were better. Just above the passenger side top water pump bolt head, the block is stamped with what is called the suffix number. It is a combination of numbers and letters that tells the production plant, date of manufacture and the application of the motor....
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...partialVIN.jpg

    Here's a good source for figuring out suffix codes....
    SBC Engine Suffix Codes

    The other main identifier is cast into the bellhousing flange of the block on the driver's side just ahead of where the bellhousing would bolt on and looks like this....
    http://chevellestuff.net/qd/images/e...2406_block.jpg

    The cylinder heads can be identified by removing the valve covers and reading the casting number in between the valves....
    http://chevellestuff.net/qd/images/heads/3890462_03.jpg

    Here's a good source for figuring out block, crankshaft, exhaust manifold, intake manifold and cylinder head casting numbers.....
    Chevy Casting Number identification - Block casting numbers

    And another source for blocks and heads....
    http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

    Also, I would STRONGLY suggest that you rid the motor of that rubber fuel line and replace it with a more substantial line BEFORE you have a fire.

    And the motor needs more air filter element area so it can breathe properly, a 14" x 4" should be about right.


    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 04-20-2017 at 09:04 AM.
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  4. #4
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Is that a temp sensor in the water pump??????

    And I agree with Tech about rubber fuel line------has stainless covered hoses top/bottom of radiator and rubber line for fuel??????????

  5. #5
    zippi's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply's about the engine I.D. guys. I will look into a stainless steel fuel line and a bigger breather. What OD for the fuel line?

  6. #6
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    Minimun 3/8 or dash 6 an

  7. #7
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Here's a quick picture. Don't forget the line brackets to keep them supported, and off of the intake. We don't want heat on the lines from the motor.
    zippi.jpg



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Minimun 3/8 or dash 6 an
    Zippi, in the event you or others don't recognize the AN that Jerry noted, it stands for Air Force/Navy and each successive number stands for one sixteenth of an inch. In other words, dash 6 (-6) would stand for 6/16" or 3/8", -8 would stand for 8/16" or 1/2", -12 would stand for 12/16" or 3/4" and so forth.....
    This standard was originated for the Air Force and the Navy because they need parts that will not fail. We don't want planes falling out of the sky or ships sinking. Their use has been adapted by the hot rodding community because of their ability to get the job done under extreme conditions. Here is an example of an outlet for AN fittings....
    http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c...e_And_Fittings

    Nice photoshop Denny.....

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 04-21-2017 at 07:44 AM.
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Is that a temp sensor in the water pump??????

    ?
    there is one by the thermostat housing as well .. perhaps one for electric fans and one for the gauge ?
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOSS429 View Post
    there is one by the thermostat housing as well .. perhaps one for electric fans and one for the gauge ?
    Makes sense to me.

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  11. #11
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    Nope-don't make sense at all---the one in the water pump will just be whatever comes out of radiator and not necessary---

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    Nope-don't make sense at all---the one in the water pump will just be whatever comes out of radiator and not necessary---
    Hmmmm, what if the sensor in the water pump switch is set to fire the fan(s) at 150 (190 at the heads)
    I don't know Jerry, I'm just tryin' to think out of the box....

    .
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  13. #13
    zippi's Avatar
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    Yup. The one for the electric fans is by the water pump and one for the gauge on the dash is in the intake. It has to reach 180 I believe before the electric fan will come on which is almost never. No PS or PB to add to the load on the engine. Nice cool running engine.

  14. #14
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    The one by the water pump is completely out of sync with the control of anything---------It would only be useful to determine how effective the radiator was (rad out, engine in) when compared to reading from the one by the thermostat. This can be useful info-----However to use it to control electric fan is total loser

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Hmmmm, what if the sensor in the water pump switch is set to fire the fan(s) at 150 (190 at the heads)
    I don't know Jerry, I'm just tryin' to think out of the box.....
    Pretty sure mine has three coolant temp sensors, all "transducers", no "switches". One at the front of a head for dedicated input to the EFI PCM, one on the thermostat neck that's the dedicated input to the SPAL programmable fan controller, and one on the intake that feeds my dash indicator. I set the trigger points on the fans by watching the PCM temp readout, which is hottest, and I know that my dash indicator shows the average coolant temp, about 15F below the head outlet.

    Zippi, I hope you got your engine ID figured out, since that's the question you brought.
    Last edited by rspears; 04-21-2017 at 05:48 AM.
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