Thread: 350 sbc Year

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I have a 350 sbc in my 1937 Ford pickup. I can just barely see the numbers on the back of the block on the passengers side but can not make it out. Is there any other way to find out the year and other info on this engine?

There are two main identifiers on the blocks for Gen I Chevy motors. One of them I could almost read from your photo if my eyes were better. Just above the passenger side top water pump bolt head, the block is stamped with what is called the suffix number. It is a combination of numbers and letters that tells the production plant, date of manufacture and the application of the motor....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...partialVIN.jpg

Here's a good source for figuring out suffix codes....
SBC Engine Suffix Codes

The other main identifier is cast into the bellhousing flange of the block on the driver's side just ahead of where the bellhousing would bolt on and looks like this....
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/images/e...2406_block.jpg

The cylinder heads can be identified by removing the valve covers and reading the casting number in between the valves....
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/images/heads/3890462_03.jpg

Here's a good source for figuring out block, crankshaft, exhaust manifold, intake manifold and cylinder head casting numbers.....
Chevy Casting Number identification - Block casting numbers

And another source for blocks and heads....
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm

Also, I would STRONGLY suggest that you rid the motor of that rubber fuel line and replace it with a more substantial line BEFORE you have a fire.

And the motor needs more air filter element area so it can breathe properly, a 14" x 4" should be about right.


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well if it aint broke dont fix it ... you ever heard that ?

Originally Posted by HOSS429

well if it aint broke dont fix it ... you ever heard that ?

Yup. I do like the idea of a stainless steel fuel line or maybe a rubber fuel line encapsulated inside a stainless steel braided line .

Originally Posted by zippi

Yup. I do like the idea of a stainless steel fuel line or maybe a rubber fuel line encapsulated inside a stainless steel braided line .

zippi, if there was a way to get you to stop thinking about using rubber in the fuel system, I'd be all about it. The other problem with rubber is that the pump fuels we have to run nowadays has ethyl alcohol in it, which will disentegrate rubber on the inside of the hose, permitting these small pieces of rubber shrapnel to enter the fuel pump and carburetor bowl and clog up any damned thing they come in contact with. Stainless braided uses a teflon core.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

zippi, if there was a way to get you to stop thinking about using rubber in the fuel system, I'd be all about it. The other problem with rubber is that the pump fuels we have to run nowadays has ethyl alcohol in it, which will disentegrate rubber on the inside of the hose, permitting these small pieces of rubber shrapnel to enter the fuel pump and carburetor bowl and clog up any damned thing they come in contact with. Stainless braided uses a teflon core.

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All stainless it is. I'll visit my local pep boys and see what they have and what fitting I'll need.

Is that a temp sensor in the water pump??????

And I agree with Tech about rubber fuel line------has stainless covered hoses top/bottom of radiator and rubber line for fuel??????????

Thanks for the reply's about the engine I.D. guys. I will look into a stainless steel fuel line and a bigger breather. What OD for the fuel line?

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Is that a temp sensor in the water pump??????

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there is one by the thermostat housing as well .. perhaps one for electric fans and one for the gauge ?

Originally Posted by HOSS429

there is one by the thermostat housing as well .. perhaps one for electric fans and one for the gauge ?

Makes sense to me.

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Minimun 3/8 or dash 6 an

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Minimun 3/8 or dash 6 an

Zippi, in the event you or others don't recognize the AN that Jerry noted, it stands for Air Force/Navy and each successive number stands for one sixteenth of an inch. In other words, dash 6 (-6) would stand for 6/16" or 3/8", -8 would stand for 8/16" or 1/2", -12 would stand for 12/16" or 3/4" and so forth.....
This standard was originated for the Air Force and the Navy because they need parts that will not fail. We don't want planes falling out of the sky or ships sinking. Their use has been adapted by the hot rodding community because of their ability to get the job done under extreme conditions. Here is an example of an outlet for AN fittings....
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c...e_And_Fittings

Nice photoshop Denny.....

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Nope-don't make sense at all---the one in the water pump will just be whatever comes out of radiator and not necessary---

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Nope-don't make sense at all---the one in the water pump will just be whatever comes out of radiator and not necessary---

Hmmmm, what if the sensor in the water pump switch is set to fire the fan(s) at 150 (190 at the heads)
I don't know Jerry, I'm just tryin' to think out of the box....

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Yup. The one for the electric fans is by the water pump and one for the gauge on the dash is in the intake. It has to reach 180 I believe before the electric fan will come on which is almost never. No PS or PB to add to the load on the engine. Nice cool running engine.