New guy with hot 350

Thanks for having me guys.
I have a 1955 Ford F100 with a ,yes, 350 in it with a 700r4 trans. I have always had temp problems. Either with the gauge reading stupid or getting a little hot and pushing some water out. Nothing too bad untill I done a parade yesterday. I changed sending units last week and the new one isn't calibrated to my Autometer gauge but on a quick trip to get to temp I could see it was off. Thermostat opened at 210 on a 165 thermostat. So I didn't get excited untill the gauge got to 250. After the parade I stopped to check and it was puking pretty good. I have a 14" electric fan and Aluminum radiator. Bone stock 350.
Any help??????????
Thanks

IMHO, dump the electric fan and put a stock clutch fan and and a proper shroud.

I respect Ken's opinion, and clutch fans usually work fine, given the appropriate clutch and full fan shroud. However most cars for the last 10-15 years or more have had electric fans, and they work fine if set up correctly. I have an electric fan (puller) with a full shroud on a 435 HP small block Chevy w/ 700R4 in my '34 coupe. It runs steady at whatever temperature the thermostat calls for. Before you switch - Is your electric fan a pusher or a puller? Does it have a shroud? Photo? How are you cooling the 700R4? Tank in the radiator?

I can't argue that Henry, but he does have a limited area for air intake on his 55 and it appears that one fan isn't getting the job done. I probably have less intake area on my bone stock 76 Vette and the only time it's overheated is when it threw the alt. belt.

Puking is more accurate than a temp reading.

Inefficiency at low speeds..

Not enough air flow. (Period)

Let's see photos.

Do you have a Shroud? If the fan is directly on the rad, then you are isolating the air flow at low speed, effectively reducing the cross-sectional area of the radiator.

a 14 fan isn't near big enough for a radiator--

I would suggest getting a fan off a Tauras or Lincoln-plus high amp relays and wire so power comes directly from feed at alternator-that way there isn't any surging in the other circuits as the fan comes on.

Another but more $$$$$$would be one from earlier Vipers

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Originally Posted by Drod

Thanks for having me guys. Thermostat opened at 210 on a 165 thermostat. So I didn't get excited untill the gauge got to 250. Any help??????????
Thanks

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How do you know the thermostat opened at 210? And if the thermostat WAS CLOSED until 210, and it's a 165 degree thermo.. then you better replace that one first!

And install a quality sleeve type thermostat, not a cheapy poppet type that costs 4 or 5 bucks.

Then you need to verify the actual readings that you need are correct. If you can't trust the gauges then get rid of them and get something that works. Do you have or can you get one of the laser type temperature guns? They can make diagnoses so much easier.

couple other basics might apply here---------sealant on sender could isolate grounding thru threads------

Truck originly was 6 volt positive ground----now 12 volt will be negative ground--------

instrument panels mid 50s had resistor in feed to gauges

If you have a lazer pointing thermometer check the temp patterns of the whole radiator which will show flow patterns of the water and any cooling effects plus possibilities of runner bloakage--------

Do you have correct rotation water pump ???????? are head gaskets on correctly????????

Something tells me he didn't get the answer he wanted, so he's a one and done.

Welcome to CHR:

I would champion all the above. If at all possible, the stock clutch fan with a shroud works very well. There are time when electric must be employed due to clearance issues. I have a double fan setup on my 63 Nova and it works fine - comes on at 165 degrees and never runs too hot. It is hooked to a separate sensor just past the thermostat in the neck. The fans draw a lot of current and I use a relay to activate the circuit.

This is my fan. It's a puller, completely shrouded, and it handles 435 horspower. It's relay actuated due to current draw, and it works in Texas weather - even with an A/C condenser attached to the front of the radiator.

Attachment 67171

By no means am I one and done from this site. Just a lot of info to take in. I will get pics and more info on here ASAP. Limited time this week because of work. But I'll get to the bottom of this with your knowledge.
Thanks and I will answer all questions soon.

That's nice setup Jack and IMHO you're the exception to the rule, well engineered and shrouded.

I'm glad you came back as there are many knowledgeable folks on this site and I'm sure your problem can be solved.

Ok, lets try to answer a few questions.
Yes, it is shrouded. The fan sets 1" away from the radiator.
A 14" fan is as big as I can put on due to radiator height.
I have changed sending units and the new one isn't paired with my gauge is why I said the thermostat opened at 210. Shoot with temp gun it opens at 175 or so. So I was just calling 210 on my gauge normal.
Run a compression check. all is good. No blown head gasket.
No room for a clutch fan.
I'll try to post pics tonight.
Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Drod

Ok, lets try to answer a few questions.
Yes, it is shrouded. The fan sets 1" away from the radiator.
A 14" fan is as big as I can put on due to radiator height.
I have changed sending units and the new one isn't paired with my gauge is why I said the thermostat opened at 210. Shoot with temp gun it opens at 175 or so. So I was just calling 210 on my gauge normal.
Run a compression check. all is good. No blown head gasket.
No room for a clutch fan.
I'll try to post pics tonight.
Thanks

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First, we have to re-visit what hotrodder means. To me, it means that the builder is able to modify any and all components of the vehicle in order to achieve a certain goal in building the vehicle. Your goal is to transplant a small block Chevy into an "Effie" pickup truck and have it work like factory. This swap has been done successfully thousands of times. Not only that, but 460 Fords and 454 Chevys have been swapped into Effie trucks successfully in the past, so please do not make the statements that you did without considering moving something. Like your "no room for a clutch fan" statement. Baloney, plenty of room for a clutch fan if you use the proper components and engineer the swap properly. I wish you lived next door to me, we'd have this mess worked out over the weekend.

YES, IT IS SHROUDED. THE FAN SITS 1" AWAY FROM THE RADIATOR.
This tells me that you have not considered moving the radiator forward or changing from long water pump to a short water pump to make room for a full, well-fitting shroud, 7-blade, 18" diameter steel fan and thermostatically-controlled fan clutch. Here's a link to understanding the long/short water pump situation.....
Chevy Small Block - Short vs Long Water Pump

A 14" FAN IS AS BIG AS I CAN PUT ON DUE TO RADIATOR HEIGHT.
Then you either have the wrong radiator in the truck or the stock radiator is mis-mounted from its stock location or you don't understand that the shroud can be bigger than the radiator in order to house an 18" fan.

The last engine swap I did before retiring was a 302 Ford and C4 into a Mitsubishi pickup truck. This was the small (D50) type truck. It was necessary to move the radiator forward and remount 2" ahead of its normal position and re-mounting the grille assembly 1" ahead. It looked stock and nobody ever said anything about it looking funky or anything. And it worked. The motor cooled well with the stock radiator, shroud and fan assembly from the Granada donor.

P.S. I don't use electric fans on anything I build. I have respect for those who can use them successfully, but for me, it's mechanical fan or nothing because I have never, ever had a problem with cooling using them. There are those, such as Jack, who understand these electrical systems, but I am not one of them. Of course, now that I'm retired, both my daily drivers have electrical cooling on them, but they were designed to work under all conditions by a team of electrical engineers at the factory. All I have to do is not fool with the systems and they work great. But if I ever do another swap, rest assured that it will be cooled with a full shroud, mechanical fan and fan clutch, operated through vee belts.

.

I had a 65 C10 with a similar set up and identical trouble.
I added an oil cooler with mini fan and it fixed the problem.

[QUOTE=techinspector1; But if I ever do another swap, rest assured that it will be cooled with a full shroud, mechanical fan and fan clutch, operated through vee belts.

.[/QUOTE]


No no Tech - it's "...when I do another swap...":):)

Ok, I ordered a new radiator. This one for a late sixties to early seventies ford truck with chevy conversion. 3 core, much larger core area and 2 12" fans rated at 1300cfm each with a louvered shroud. Rated at cooling 600 HP. Going to change back to the sending unit for my gauge and see what happens.
Also tried to post pics,,,guess I'm not smart enough.
Thanks for all your advice. I well keep you informed after the radiator install.. Or if your close to middle Tennessee and this don't work, you will probably hear me.

If you'd like some help with the pics.. flip'em to me and I'll put'em up for you.

email at mfmike1@comcast.net :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Drod

Ok, I ordered a new radiator. This one for a late sixties to early seventies ford truck with chevy conversion. 3 core, much larger core area and 2 12" fans rated at 1300cfm each with a louvered shroud. Rated at cooling 600 HP. Going to change back to the sending unit for my gauge and see what happens.
Also tried to post pics,,,guess I'm not smart enough.
Thanks for all your advice. I well keep you informed after the radiator install.. Or if your close to middle Tennessee and this don't work, you will probably hear me.

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Sounds a bit like the radiator setup I have on my 66 Ford F100....minus the Chevy engine, of course!;)

Here's a couple of pics.. and she's a sweet ride too!:)

Not sure how you done that but thanks. And in the engine picture you can see what I have space wise. I think the new radiator will make the difference.
We love cruisin the old thing even with the issues. If I get them fixed, i'll never be home.

It's a sweet truck, Drod!! I go to a few car/truck shows with a group of guys from a '53-56 F100 truck club out of Orange Co. CA. A couple of the guys have orange ones similar to yours. Gorgeous trucks!! Welcome to CHR and I hope you get your cooling issues sorted out. :D

I'm not saying that Tech is old school, but this is the last ride he built . . . ;)

Attachment 67241

Sorry Richard! The devil made me do it.

New 3 core radiator 2 1320 cfm fans and polished shroud. All is good so far. Even put the correct sending unit back in. Now if it will quit raining so we can get out and enjoy.

That's great news. Glad you made it back to share the update.

So kinda new to working on cars here. I am installing a water temperature gauge to the side off my heads on the drivers side. I unscrewed the bolt on the block, and coolant started leaking out. Should this happen? Or is my whole radiator draining its coolant through this hole?

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Originally Posted by Swiggy101

So kinda new to working on cars here. I am installing a water temperature gauge to the side off my heads on the drivers side. I unscrewed the bolt on the block, and coolant started leaking out. Should this happen? Or is my whole radiator draining its coolant through this hole?

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Depends on which bolt you took out. can you post a picture?