Thread: More power

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First thing I would do is to identify what you have. A Gen I '89 truck motor would have been a flat tappet cam most likely, but who knows, it could be a roller cam from the factory. Some disassembly of the motor may be necessary to determine the lifter type. Let's begin by getting the numbers off the block and try to identify what you have there.

The block casting number will be at the left side rear of the block (driver's side if you drive on the right side of the road) just before where the bell housing bolts to the block. Identifying it may require using a toothbrush with some Dawn dishwash detergent on it and a little water to wash off the crud so you can read it. Sometimes it requires a telescoping mechanic's mirror and definitely requires a strong light to read the number correctly. Sometimes the casting was not finished properly and an 8 will look like a 3 and vice versa.
http://www.speednik.com/files/2013/0...asylum-com.jpg

The suffix code will be stamped into the engine block on the right side of the block (passenger side if you drive on the right side of the road) at the very front, just ahead of the cylinder head and adjacent to the top water pump bolt head. Depending on the equipment on the motor from the factory, this number may be hidden behind an alternator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor. It will appear like the "V" numbers/letters shown here....
http://jmacperformance.com/wp-conten...D-numbers2.jpg
http://www.chevyasylum.com/tech/V8Stamp2r4t.jpg

I have not worked on EFI motors too much, so don't know much about the fuel delivery system, but I might be thinkin' blower or turbo with a chip upgrade. Puffing about 5 to 6 psi into the motor should net you a 30-40% increase in power and put a grin on your face without changing the cam and opening up a can of worms, but it won't be cheap. For a lighter hit on your wallet, you might also consider boltin' on some "spray", an N2O system that can be easily removed when you're tired of playin' and want to sell the truck. A 100 hp or 150 hp system could be bolted on for less than 1,000 bucks and not require teardown beyond removal and re-install of the throttle body. The really neat way to install these is with a 1 gallon fuel cell (holding race gas or methanol to prevent detonation) mounted in the engine compartment....although turning your dry intake manifold into a wet system may not be the hot tip....keep reading....

NOS kit....
http://www.andysautosport.com/produc..._05153NOS.html

fuel cells....
http://my.starstream.net/beccruice/'...se%20Small.JPG
http://s553.photobucket.com/user/yob..._0117.jpg.html
http://s601.photobucket.com/user/nos...yron2.jpg.html
http://s70.photobucket.com/user/GFor...lhoun.jpg.html
You should consider that the blower or turbo installation costs stop with the install, whereas the nitrous oxide systems require continual re-filling of the nitrous bottle and the 1 gallon fuel tank.

Order this used book by David Vizard to learn how to install and use N2O....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...condition=used
Order this used book by Pat Ganahl to learn how to install and use a blower....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...condition=used
Order this used book by Jeff Hartman to learn how to install and use a turbocharger....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...1242551&sr=1-3

Lots of good information plus details about wet, dry or direct systems here....
http://www.andysautosport.com/additi...noscatalog.pdf

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I know my truck has 160k miles with 9-1/2in rear diff. I'm not sure about transmition. Its automatic and I know that the pan is square pan with 16 bolts which means its one of three: (4L60/TH700/or 4L60E). I would like to know how to identify which one I have. I have about a 500 budget. I was going to use the money to buy exhaust that is pretty bad now. Overall the truck is solid, engine doesn't knock or leak fluid. I use this truck as a daily driver but I can afford to be out of a vehicle for a few days to work on it.