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11-10-2011 08:06 AM #16
so since im goin with the stroker, my origional hp goal of 450 is now bumped up to at least 500. as far as runners bein too big, what changes would you make?? also does the build list look ok for a 10.0:1 compression?? again, what changes should be made if not?? thank you for all your input!!
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11-10-2011 08:43 AM #17
Bigger runners= torque peaks higher up in the RPM ranges and in some cases shorter torque bands.
Stay miles away from the CHEAP Chinese stroker kits.
Pat is in the business of building engines.Five stars for the advise given.Jerry is also a master engine builder who hasn't posted on this thread yet.
Can't take those fan based articles at face value.Pat or Jerry will give you up to date real street hands on info.Never lose the sight of the magazines main function is to sell you the parts from their advertisers.Good Bye
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11-10-2011 09:26 AM #18
Last magazine article that had anything about me was Nov 2011 Super Chevy
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11-10-2011 10:12 AM #19
so if any of u were to build a 383 stroker keeping compression at 10.0:1 that put oout a min of 500 hp what would your parts list look like?
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11-10-2011 10:34 AM #20
Check out this website to educate yourself on engine combinations and resulting horsepower and torque.
Ryan's Stroker Combo Page (9-16)
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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11-10-2011 12:51 PM #21
Looks like 93 or 102 is what you need. I like that site LynnIf it's not broke, fix it anyway.
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11-10-2011 01:00 PM #22
My 383 is based on #15 with a little more compression. I am more than happy with how it performs and the excellent street manners.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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11-10-2011 02:27 PM #23
lynn thank you, just what im lookin for! no17 is where i want to be, but it doesnt give specifics like pistons crank, rods, ect...
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11-10-2011 02:47 PM #24
the 383 is ok way to go but here is were the SHP dart block shines over stock GM blocks starting with a4.125 bore block now what ever head you put on the engine is going to work so much better then the 4.030 bore 350 and the SHP block not going to step out under power like the stock block may you start steping up in the 240 @ 050 cams in your 383 the bottom ends going to be abit soft less your going with a 3500+.stall and some gear will not be fun in town at lower RPMLast edited by pat mccarthy; 11-10-2011 at 03:10 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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11-10-2011 05:42 PM #25
I'm sorry but I'm not even going to look at any combos using stock blocks unless it is an restoration, or possibly a LT1 or LT4 where there aren't any better blocks available. The Dart SHP is the way to go for a small block as it can be had and built with 4.125---there by not using up the cylinder walls rebuild reserve--they come as 4 bolt mains----finish hone to size for the pistons you chose and check clearances--
If its for an LT1/4 car--we build them up with core blocks we source and install billet splayed 4 bolt main caps, align bore/hone mains, deck with BHJ , index bore and torque plate hone with Sunnen CK 10--
We also have pretty much gotten away from cast cranks after some recent ones were heat treated so hard that we couldn't drill them for balancing--
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11-13-2011 07:58 PM #26
You can get a good 383 stroker kit for around $1,000 plus the machining and to have the motor assembled. I have had both engnies and for the price the 383 is well worth the price !
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11-13-2011 08:23 PM #27
as a engine machine shop owner and a seller of new and used parts i have a hard time buying he getting any thing that going to take 500+hp with machine work block and forged parts for a $1000. not pushing my stuff ? but my SHP 400 short block kit is the best bang for the buckLast edited by pat mccarthy; 11-13-2011 at 10:09 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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11-13-2011 09:35 PM #28
Just like Pat is telling you.There are Reasons why there is a market for the aftermarket blocks.It all hinged on the OEM stuff and it's short comings.It's not excessive to purchase one of those either.So the logic it's more than "I" need doesn't hold true.Overall it is just a better pc.Good Bye
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11-14-2011 07:22 AM #29
More than 450 hp is generally the point where you should seriously consider an aftermarket block and forged components. There seems to be some magic associated with 500 hp for some reason because it is what so many people shoot for as the ideal number. Bragging rights, perhaps? Actually, 400-450 hp are very good numbers for a street machine and will provide excellent performance without all the extra cost associated with that magic number "500."
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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11-14-2011 07:36 AM #30
500 hp is EZ and round number .i build engine so many walk threw my door saying i want 500 hp . i have small blocks with stock block making more hp with blowers on them not the best setup were after market block is the way to go were if you build a engine mild lets say mid 400 hp with all stock stuff this will work them he runs out and buys 250 hp in a bottle most know what will happen sooner then latter so 500 hp just seams a ez number to worry about from my stand point there is dreamers that do not know what 500Hp is. but i have customer running past 850 +off the NOs them guys know what it takesIrish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance