Thread: Motor mounts not lining up
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10-10-2011 02:26 PM #1
You might want to try a set from the local chevy dealer.If it's not broke, fix it anyway.
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10-10-2011 02:50 PM #2
They definitely go on the angled portion of the frame. I have pictures of the old mounts still installed after I pulled the old motor, and they are in the exact same spot.
Honestly, I really thought about redrilling the holes. The reason I haven't done it yet.... First, there is a reason it's not lining up, I didn't want to rig it up. A 350 came out, a 350 should go right back in! Something's wrong, and i'd rather find the issue, if possible. Secondly, if I move my bolts up, that means the engine will sit a bit higher, and I'm not sure if I will have to worry about problems with the transmission and transfer case lining up properly.
I could also do that. I want to find the problem, first, though. There HAS TO be a reason this isn't lining up. It's almost the same engine going in as what came out. Only difference is they are about 10 years apart.
Let me measure some other trucks, and try to get a hold of the guy who has my original motor mounts. I think I got his number... I'll let you know in a little bit.
Thanks!
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10-10-2011 07:37 PM #3
Ok im pretty sure it's in the block- side mounts. I can slide my hand between the motor mount and the frame mount on my current one, but couldn't on any other truck I seen. looks like if I get a shorter engine side mount I'll be fine. Unfortunately the guy I sold my block to sent my old mounts to the scrapper.
I'll let you guys know when I get new mounts if thats the problem.
Thanks again for all the help.
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10-10-2011 10:38 AM #4
What I was wondering on the through bolts was with the old engine - when you pulled that engine did your through bolts come out easy once you had the load off of them, or were they binding which might signify something being bent? Not likely, but we're grasping at straws here.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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10-10-2011 11:15 AM #5
As far as I can remember, they came out very easy. The old mounts were not bent, either, I think I would have noticed. I looked them over fairly well.
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10-10-2011 12:59 PM #6
How far south are you from Detroit??? this could be an interesting road tripCharlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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10-17-2011 02:56 PM #7
I think that nut is there so you put the bolt in from the rear . The fuel pump would be in the way,going from the front.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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10-17-2011 03:42 PM #8
Very good, glad you got it figured out. Bet you know more about Chevy mounts than you ever wanted to know.
Don
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10-18-2011 12:15 PM #9
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08-30-2014 02:20 AM #10
Just when you think you've seen it all .....
Ran into this delima on a 350 install from a 2wd 1990 suburban into a 4wd 91 Suburban. Big thanks to Clubhotrod forum making the solution public.UNDERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. OVERSTEER is when you hit the wall with the rear. HORSEPOWER is how fast you hit the wall. TORQUE is how far you take the wall with you.
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03-25-2015 01:57 AM #11
where did you find those brackets? do you have a part number for them?
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03-25-2015 06:23 AM #12
The thread you've posted to was last active in October 2011, and unfortunately the original poster who "solved" the problem was last active two weeks later, November 1, 2011. Back in Post #5 there was a clue with some numbers that might help you....but looking at them on NAPA's site they appear to be the frame portion, not the block so may be no help.
Originally Posted by HWORRELL
Last edited by rspears; 03-25-2015 at 08:47 AM. Reason: Looked at the NAPA pictures.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.





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