Thread: Help, engine just quit, no spark

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I have also seen the small wires that go into the module fail and cause alot of the symptoms you're describing. Not saying this is your issue but while the module is out, test for continuity across the small wires.

Welcome aboard. A common problem with these modules is the wire will break, , easy to check, very gently tug at it where it attaches to the module.
Don't be afraid to ask here, they are the greatest people with the most information you will ever find! brian

Originally Posted by Oldmanb

Welcome aboard. A common problem with these modules is the wire will break, , easy to check, very gently tug at it where it attaches to the module.
Don't be afraid to ask here, they are the greatest people with the most information you will ever find! brian

I am totally unfamiliar with the GM system. Where do i check voltage and everything.

On the cap there are three wire connectors, two in front, Tach and Bat, then the one behind them with the mulitple wires that goes down to the base of the distributer.

The coil i installed was a bit different, the one i took out had three wires, a black which looked as if it was a ground then the red and purple one, the new one had 4 wires, Black, purple, red and another black ground wire?

I just attached it to the other screw that held the coil in. Where is this modules that everyone is talking about?

It is usually either the rotor or the HEI module. When you buy a new module, there are a couple of tips that will make your life easier......first, there are several variations of modules, defined by the number of "pins" or leads. Go to Tech's link and figure out which module you need. Second, dont buy a cheap crap module....you'll only be doing the change out again. Third, put the thermal grease under the module to dissipate the heat.

Look at your rotor. At the center on the underside, look for a small, pin sized black spot where the spark is arcing thru to ground against the distributor shaft. Many times, a module gets changed when the problem is the rotor. Many garages charge for a module change and fix the problem with a new rotor. Again, dont buy the crap brands that the off brand parts houses sell (Checker, PBs, etc sell crap usually)

mike in tucson

Originally Posted by robot

Look at your rotor. At the center on the underside, look for a small, pin sized black spot where the spark is arcing thru to ground against the distributor shaft. Many times, a module gets changed when the problem is the rotor. Many garages charge for a module change and fix the problem with a new rotor. Again, dont buy the crap brands that the off brand parts houses sell (Checker, PBs, etc sell crap usually)

mike in tucson

excellent mention i hadn`t worked on anything gm for nearly a hunnert years and had forgotten how many burned rotors i`d replaced

I haven't bought anything for GM in years and Borg Warner used to make good parts, don't know about now. The rotor needs to be of high dialectic strength to minimize arcing.

All good posts but if I might add a suggestion. From your 1st post you mentioned crud and rust in the carb and that it had been sitting for as while. Sounds like you may have water in the tank in addition to the other problems mentioned earlier. I would have the tank boiled out and the fuel line purged. The carb may need another complete cleaning too.

Jack.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

I haven't bought anything for GM in years and Borg Warner used to make good parts, don't know about now. The rotor needs to be of high dialectic strength to minimize arcing.

thanks for the info, i will check the dist rotor, i am actually having a electrical guru from our club come look at it. It is probably something stupid and obvious.

He had me check for power at the bat connector, no power coming to the wire. Tried hotwiring it from the alt stud to the bat terminal on the coil and got a back fire then nothing.