Thread: Help, engine just quit, no spark

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It is usually either the rotor or the HEI module. When you buy a new module, there are a couple of tips that will make your life easier......first, there are several variations of modules, defined by the number of "pins" or leads. Go to Tech's link and figure out which module you need. Second, dont buy a cheap crap module....you'll only be doing the change out again. Third, put the thermal grease under the module to dissipate the heat.

Look at your rotor. At the center on the underside, look for a small, pin sized black spot where the spark is arcing thru to ground against the distributor shaft. Many times, a module gets changed when the problem is the rotor. Many garages charge for a module change and fix the problem with a new rotor. Again, dont buy the crap brands that the off brand parts houses sell (Checker, PBs, etc sell crap usually)

mike in tucson

Originally Posted by robot

Look at your rotor. At the center on the underside, look for a small, pin sized black spot where the spark is arcing thru to ground against the distributor shaft. Many times, a module gets changed when the problem is the rotor. Many garages charge for a module change and fix the problem with a new rotor. Again, dont buy the crap brands that the off brand parts houses sell (Checker, PBs, etc sell crap usually)

mike in tucson

excellent mention i hadn`t worked on anything gm for nearly a hunnert years and had forgotten how many burned rotors i`d replaced

I haven't bought anything for GM in years and Borg Warner used to make good parts, don't know about now. The rotor needs to be of high dialectic strength to minimize arcing.

All good posts but if I might add a suggestion. From your 1st post you mentioned crud and rust in the carb and that it had been sitting for as while. Sounds like you may have water in the tank in addition to the other problems mentioned earlier. I would have the tank boiled out and the fuel line purged. The carb may need another complete cleaning too.

Jack.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

I haven't bought anything for GM in years and Borg Warner used to make good parts, don't know about now. The rotor needs to be of high dialectic strength to minimize arcing.

thanks for the info, i will check the dist rotor, i am actually having a electrical guru from our club come look at it. It is probably something stupid and obvious.

He had me check for power at the bat connector, no power coming to the wire. Tried hotwiring it from the alt stud to the bat terminal on the coil and got a back fire then nothing.

Originally Posted by rp23g7

thanks for the info, i will check the dist rotor, i am actually having a electrical guru from our club come look at it. It is probably something stupid and obvious.

He had me check for power at the bat connector, no power coming to the wire. Tried hotwiring it from the alt stud to the bat terminal on the coil and got a back fire then nothing.

I replaced the cap, rotor and module, and it still didnt work, dang coil fuse