Thread: this look right?

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so i bought a 327 a few months back. i tore it down and im getting ready to start putting it back together. the motor didnt come with a harmonic balancer so i need to order one of them.

i was looking at the end of the crankshaft and i dont see how the dang thing would bolt on. is my crank messed up?

The balancer presses on, there should be threads on the inside of the crank for a retaining bolt, I can`t tell from the pics if they are there,,,

i didnt feel any threads in there. it seemed to be smooth as hell in there. i even tried to thread in a bold to see if i could even grab some thread. nothing.and when i look inside the hole its smooth. looks machined. i couldnt get a good picture with my camera. ill try to get a better one

yep the old chevys had no bolt . but that not stoping you from drilling/tapping out the crank out for a 7/16-20

so its not supposed to have a bolt in the end of it? how would it stay on then?

Originally Posted by thejallenator

so its not supposed to have a bolt in the end of it? how would it stay on then?

nope they did not what keeps them on is press fit. like i said you drill and tap in them you can use a damper tool and press the damper on and them you have a bolt many of the older chevys guys have drilled a tap them no big deal

ahhh thanks for the clarification!! i thought for a second that the balancer was ripped off damaging the crank!! good to know its not that way. now ive gotta try and find the right cam and this motor will be ready for assembly!

Originally Posted by thejallenator

ahhh thanks for the clarification!! i thought for a second that the balancer was ripped off damaging the crank!! good to know its not that way. now ive gotta try and find the right cam and this motor will be ready for assembly!

make sure you have the right cam bearings to. the cam on number 5 will have a flat mill in one spot if soild lifter and a groove 360 round the cam but that only pre 60 ? as long as the block is groove on #5 the cam will not need to be .if not then the lifters and upper end will not get oil the upper end oil thru #5 cam bearing

its a 68 or 69. i cant remember exactly. i dont know a lot about the engine. all the info i find is pretty vague.

as for the bearings my machinist will be dealing with that and he knows is shit so the bearings wont be a problem. he'll use the right ones

Originally Posted by thejallenator

its a 68 or 69. i cant remember exactly. i dont know a lot about the engine. all the info i find is pretty vague.

as for the bearings my machinist will be dealing with that and he knows is shit so the bearings wont be a problem. he'll use the right ones

ok it newer so a durbond ch 8 cam bearing will work and any cam will work up to gm hyd roller step nose and i made them work in the older blocks if he knew his stuff he should of told you to tap the crank or did it for you ?

well im not exactly sure what cam to actually pick out to get me the power i want outta the engine. lookin for 300-400 hp and 300 being more realistic. maybe a call to a camshaft company is in my future.

Originally Posted by thejallenator

maybe a call to a camshaft company is in my future.

Best idea.
Write down all your facts and figures about your combination in detail before you call. That'll be the best way to get an honest, detailed assessment from the cam tech who helps you.

With all due respect to Techs "Best Idea" I personally feel like there is another and better "Best Idea".

Gather all of your information, and the plans and goals you have for this motor. Post them on here for Tech and Pat Mccarthy to go over and study on a might. Then follow there directions to the letter and you have the best chance there is to attain those plans and goals. A much better chance than talking to some tech guy at XY or Z cam manufacturer.

RS

Originally Posted by Hombre259

With all due respect to Techs "Best Idea" I personally feel like there is another and better "Best Idea".

Gather all of your information, and the plans and goals you have for this motor. Post them on here for Tech and Pat Mccarthy to go over and study on a might. Then follow there directions to the letter and you have the best chance there is to attain those plans and goals. A much better chance than talking to some tech guy at XY or Z cam manufacturer.

RS

I`ll second that

As to the crank, drilling and tapping would be my choice, like others have stated. The early cranks, pre-70, if memory serves right, did not have the tapped snout, and the procedure laid out in the factory manuals was to simply drive the balancer/dampener onto the crank nose using a lead mallet. Since not everyone has access to a lead mallet, a block of wood and a big hammer were most often substituted, and a bazillion of them were done this way with no appreciable harm. I will say that I am no fan of banging on the front end (or rear end, for that matter) of any crankshaft, and that must be a valid concern, because Chevy did finally add threads and a retaining bolt to the things, and life for an engine builder of Chevys has been so much nicer, since, with the use of a balancer/dampener remover, and an installer.