Thread: Help me out, thinking weird again

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Originally Posted by 1gary

Dave,thought you said you wanted to drive it on some cruise nights???.

I will.....

Originally Posted by 1gary

Dave,thought you said you wanted to drive it on some cruise nights???.

Never underestimate the fortitude of a veteran hot rodder with attitude.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Never underestimate the fortitude of a veteran hot rodder with attitude.

I think that would be a compliment?????

The car and I will be a lot alike....Barely civilized and only allowed out in public on a limited basis!!!!

Originally Posted by 1gary

Dave,thought you said you wanted to drive it on some cruise nights???.

well you never seen any thing i drive on the streets

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well you never seen any thing i drive on the streets

There ya go Pat!!!! "Streetable" has a very loose definition for some of us, huh??

Ferocious. I have a few questions, on page 4 there were statements about short stroke being hard to get compression - care to elaborste? Also mention of an 800lift cam, will that fit into the cam hole? Or do they have BBC size cam bore?

Originally Posted by ojh

Ferocious. I have a few questions, on page 4 there were statements about short stroke being hard to get compression - care to elaborste? Also mention of an 800lift cam, will that fit into the cam hole? Or do they have BBC size cam bore?

yes its swep dist.more adds CR with less or no dome on pistons. the more stroke the less dome or less cc you need to get CR up. the bigger the stroke the more CR you can get with less dome . with big domes you get bad flame travel .like jerry said . spark plugs can get in the way bigger valve cut for hi lift big cams take a way from dome CC .all this some one need to find out when you build a engine like this. on custom piston i work most all this out before the pistons are made . you can get 15to1 with a flat top and 90 cc chamber head on some bbc engines .the cam would be for bbc cam bearings and core will take a 500 lobe with 1.6 rockers and use a 903 with a 810 wheel

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

yes its swep dist.more adds CR with less or no dome on pistons. the more stroke the less dome or less cc you need to get CR up. the bigger the stroke the more CR you can get with less dome . with big domes you get bad flame travel .like jerry said . spark plugs can get in the way bigger valve cut for hi lift big cams take a way from dome CC .all this some one need to find out when you build a engine like this. on custom piston i work most all this out before the pistons are made . you can get 15to1 with a flat top and 90 cc chamber head on some bbc engines .the cam would be for bbc cam bearings and core will take a 500 lobe with 1.6 rockers and use a 903 with a 810 wheel

Yes, thats right - i got stupid again. When you said 'stroke' my brain fixated on rod length for soem reason.
Thanks for the courteous explanation, oj

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

There ya go Pat!!!! "Streetable" has a very loose definition for some of us, huh??

Yes Streetable is a LOOSE definition HAHAHA

well tech can fine tune this or jerry but looks if you use the RHS 50cc head and use the felpro F1014 and a 13 cc dome piston with a 4.155 bore with a 3.250 crank you get around a 13.8 CR at O deck . JE makes a piston in a 13 cc dome that may work with the 50 cc head or some hand fitting of the dome may or not be in order as that piston is shown for a 58 cc head so as a shelf piston would be ez to see if it works in this build so looks like at can work

As Richard said not to be a poser or a pain,but I am very sure all of you guys know of the shortcomings driving a race engine on the street.It ant about any sub and tubs.You can do that anywhere.Well,some race coilovers don't like that consistent use for very long.

I am a big time street rodder for many years.The point of my post is I too have started a project with one intent and ended up with something a lot different letting the hot rodder get the best of me.This is a high dollar engine that more than likely a well planed engine of the period the car was,you would be able to build two.When Dave came up with this car,He said he was going to follow the path of when the car was raced last.I thought cool,he was going to build a truly
a nostalgia gasser.All that brings back so many memories for so many people.

So I am in no way being defensive here.Yeah,I know,I know,how builds change and grow from their original intent.In fact look how much the engine build has changed since Richard's posted link,which years ago would have been a backyard build,to where it is here.

Build it like it is your last one...........is a common ground for all rodders.

The above is just my two cents worth.

well so your telling me what i used and built for the street will not work ? thats funny as i been at it for over 25+ years building and puting engines in street cars guys would like for a strip engine come to think about it there been many of my old street engines that i have sold to drag racers/mud racers . i know what works on the street . i been there and done it so i am not a poser but the real deal .i built many race engines some would call them that have seen many street miles .i am not the guy thats running a drag car with street tires .i have had tub out cars. my first car i tube out was in 1983 so i been there done that. i have been in to cars that are built for street use for some time. that will out stop and out handle that can take a fast turn. a car far better of the same year with far more power. now do i need this no. but i can build it. i want it. so i have it .it cost alot to build cars. i drive with the so called race engine are not every day but low mile drives short blast down the road . so the engines do not see any more then 1000 miles a year but have had race/street engines that have seen way more then that if i want to drive them more i can. i really like my rust old 90 chevy pick up were i do not have to worry about getting hit

One of the biggest shortcomings of driving a race engine on the street is heat....but E-85 Ethanol, just like methanol, runs very cool...sometimes at the drags we have to keep an oil heater plugged in between rounds while the gasoline guys are still trying to cool their cars down!!!!!

An automatic with a big stall converter is a real PITA on the street, mine will be either a 4 or 5 speed manual.

Driving on the street also has a lot to do with where you live...Madison has about 6,000 people and only 2 traffic lights in the entire town so the stop and go 1 block at a time stuff doesn't apply.

Race clutches are light pedal pressure these days, no more insane pressure to hold the clutch in.

The car will be (and has been for years) a gasser for all intents and purposes. Granted the engine will be a bit wilder and the car will have better brakes and steering then it has ever had but as I said in an earlier post I won't hold off on safety items to have "the look". Technology has improved immensly since the '57 was originally built as a drag car in the mid-60's sometime. With where I live and my intended use for the car, I don't really see any shortcomings of having a raspy nasty race engine on the street----I've had lighter cars with more power and ran them on the street with no problems---well other then an episode or two with the cops when things got a bit crazy.

Like Pat, doubt seriously if the car will even get close to 1,000 street miles a year. All it will really see is a bit of cruizin' once in awhile on Saturday night to go out and play with the other kids..... Around here we just don't have a lot of traffic to put up with, the majority of the cops are kewl, and my one and only neighbor is a gearhead also. I'll probably hit a number of out of town car show, but the '57 will make the trip in the trailer...

Finally, had I known guys like Pat, Richard, Jerry, and many of the other members on CHR back in the mid 60's probably would have built an engine much the same as this one will be.... I didn't mind spending a few extra $$$$ on parts back then either.

Anyway Gary, no offense taken and none given. My cars have always been a tad on the radical side, as I mentioned I have a very loose definition of streetable. I've had a number of street driven cars that would run high 9's to low 10's on the track with very few changes in the tune up or equipment from street to track. But ya gotta remember that I live out in the sticks and we can get away with a lot of stuff here that the city kids would get locked up for.

on dave engine? if he build s it may have alum rods . so would of a engine of that years late 60s . the new engine will have a roller . they had rollers . crank i am thinking will be a used nascar part ? but steel . so a good old steel crank re work ? about the same here. old block re work main caps / girdles .by the time you find a old block clean it machine it is not much more for the dart block and will take a beating better then a so/so block then seen god know what . same with the heads RHS iron heads less the 600 bare that flow very good. with old heads iron that need alot of work to flow and $$ way way more money just ask a class racer how much they spend on old junk iron heads to get numbers out of them . so i do not see two engines just one that is better one .price to build a engine like this will not cost any more then a in the good old day engine now . i knew guys with the good old day engines and they were sent out to the big shop for work and had heads work to less then a inch of there life and much $$$

Holy crow Pat!!!.Didn't say you don't know what ya doing.Did say some race engines by design are for those short bursts only.Some overheat when driven on the street and foul plugs.Some race clearances are not intended for street use.Com down Pat.Really don't want to ruin Dave's thread with stuff like this.Gezzzzzzz.