Thread: Opinions wanted.

Tweet

does your budget include new pushrods for the roller rockers?
I about crapped when I found out I had
to spend 219 for pushrods for my application.
(rollers on aluminum heads for an Olds 455)

probably yours are less expensive in a more
popular application, but don't forget the
original pushrods aren't necessarily going
to be a length you can use with rollers.

Originally Posted by t0oL

does your budget include new pushrods for the roller rockers?
I about crapped when I found out I had
to spend 219 for pushrods for my application.
(rollers on aluminum heads for an Olds 455)

probably yours are less expensive in a more
popular application, but don't forget the
original pushrods aren't necessarily going
to be a length you can use with rollers.

yep well i did post he needs to check is mid lift so you get the right push rod length get that wrong you not going to add any thing .i get most all my push rods from TREND PERFORMANCE

Y'all keep talking. I'm still learning from the replys.

And thanks for the http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks tech1

So much has changed over the last 15-20 years.

Update 10/27/10 I went with the Comp Hi-Tech Stainless steel rockers with a 1.5 ratio. Note: Tech staff at Comp says they have not reported any troubles with these rockers going for well over 50,000+ miles with a mild cam and mild seat presures like mine.
Maybe just a sales pitch but i'll find out.

Checked ALL 16 valves for geometry

I used a soild lifter and an adjustable push rod(7.5-8.7) with a black felt tip pen. I have 5 that did not have a real good pattren(centered and narrow) on valve tip and may need a shorter push rod.
A local racer says change out the 5 studs first before buying differant push rods? Is there anything to this theory?

Originally Posted by JBoss

A local racer says change out the 5 studs first before buying differant push rods? Is there anything to this theory?

He may be thinking, and rightly so, that the heads have been tossed around, bending some of the studs. Lay a good straightedge on the side of the studs from end to end near the top of the studs. You'll be able to see pretty quickly if any are bent.

i tru-deck all my builds. i face the heads then do the valve job i hold the decks under .002 and my valve jobs are never more then 004 up or down i do mid lift check on number 1 less its a big chief head bbc if you taking roller tracking to valve stem i check that and buy adjustable guide plates. i do not check mild lift on all 16 not needed.you only going to get pushrod up or down by 050 increments has for your studs you hope your studs are bent if not then the fun starts

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i tru-deck all my builds. i face the heads then do the valve job i hold the decks under .002 and my valve jobs are never more then 004 up or down

Wow! Your talking way above my level now.

Pat.
Your gonna owe me a new laptop by the time I get done googling all this info your putting out.