Opinions wanted.

well hell yes... a roller cam and roller rockers sure i build them this way all the time. i never look at his cam .if a flat lifter cam .they are wast of time .i would spend money on a roller cam kit .and if money is hard to find run steel stamp rockers the nitro carbided long slot s will work and they say there not all over the map on ratio. rocker arms are not hard to swap out at a later dat and buy some roller rockers . a cam is abit more work if i had to pick i would take steel stamp rockers arm any day over a flat lifter cam come to think about it i am doing two engine s this way a hyd roller cam 289 ford and a 283 hyd roller chevy :) and the last 4 engine before that were one 427 with crane gold roller rockers one 355 with comp gold rockers . one with 351 W with T&D shafts rockers and a 445 W with howards rockers arms so there is a place for steel and roller and hi rent:3dSMILE:

does your budget include new pushrods for the roller rockers?
I about crapped when I found out I had
to spend 219 for pushrods for my application.
(rollers on aluminum heads for an Olds 455)

probably yours are less expensive in a more
popular application, but don't forget the
original pushrods aren't necessarily going
to be a length you can use with rollers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by t0oL

does your budget include new pushrods for the roller rockers?
I about crapped when I found out I had
to spend 219 for pushrods for my application.
(rollers on aluminum heads for an Olds 455)

probably yours are less expensive in a more
popular application, but don't forget the
original pushrods aren't necessarily going
to be a length you can use with rollers.

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yep well i did post he needs to check is mid lift so you get the right push rod length get that wrong you not going to add any thing .i get most all my push rods from TREND PERFORMANCE

Y'all keep talking. I'm still learning from the replys. :)

And thanks for the http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks tech1

So much has changed over the last 15-20 years.

Update 10/27/10 I went with the Comp Hi-Tech Stainless steel rockers with a 1.5 ratio. Note: Tech staff at Comp says they have not reported any troubles with these rockers going for well over 50,000+ miles with a mild cam and mild seat presures like mine.
Maybe just a sales pitch but i'll find out.:HMMM:

Checked ALL 16 valves for geometry

I used a soild lifter and an adjustable push rod(7.5-8.7) with a black felt tip pen. I have 5 that did not have a real good pattren(centered and narrow) on valve tip and may need a shorter push rod.
A local racer says change out the 5 studs first before buying differant push rods? Is there anything to this theory? :confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JBoss

A local racer says change out the 5 studs first before buying differant push rods? Is there anything to this theory? :confused:

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He may be thinking, and rightly so, that the heads have been tossed around, bending some of the studs. Lay a good straightedge on the side of the studs from end to end near the top of the studs. You'll be able to see pretty quickly if any are bent.

i tru-deck all my builds. i face the heads then do the valve job i hold the decks under .002 and my valve jobs are never more then 004 up or down i do mid lift check on number 1 less its a big chief head bbc if you taking roller tracking to valve stem i check that and buy adjustable guide plates. i do not check mild lift on all 16 not needed.you only going to get pushrod up or down by 050 increments has for your studs you hope your studs are bent if not then the fun starts

Quote:

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Lay a good straightedge on the side of the studs from end to end near the top of the studs. You'll be able to see pretty quickly if any are bent.

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I dont have a "straightedge" per say. Will the edge of a 6ft level should work? I would think it would.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i tru-deck all my builds. i face the heads then do the valve job i hold the decks under .002 and my valve jobs are never more then 004 up or down

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Wow! Your talking way above my level now.

Pat.
Your gonna owe me a new laptop by the time I get done googling all this info your putting out. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JBoss

I dont have a "straightedge" per say. Will the edge of a 6ft level should work? I would think it would.

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Yeah, that'll work. Lay the level first on one side and then the other side of the studs and look closely between the studs and the level with a good strong light.

Pat is also saying that some of the valves could be at a taller or shorter installed height due to the depth of the valve seats. If you cut one valve seat down farther into the head than another valve seat, the valve on the deep seat will have the valve stem sitting up higher on the spring side of the head and that valve could have a different pattern shown on the valve tip because the geometry is a little different.

With all the springs in place and the valves seated, lay the level across the top of the valves to see if one or more stick up above the adjacent valve stems. That will tell you that the seats are uneven or the valves are of unequal length. If the valve stems have been cut to equalize the length, the shop may have ground down past the initial hardening that is on the valve stem. This will result in the rocker pushing off to the side of the valve stem after it rounds off the stem tip.

Update 10/29/10:

Checked Studs as suggested and found one that was bent down .006 using a feeler gauge under the level. REPLACED it on the spot.
Checked valves tips. Also with level. I could not get a .002 feeler gauge under the low ones. By what I have learned so far this is very good and nothing more needs to be done.

I installed the rockers arms and adjusted lash.(zero lash + 1/2 turn)
Rechecked #1 and the #8(bent stud) Everything looks good.

Thanks very much for the help and the info. :D