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Thread: 350 Build
          
   
   

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  1. #6
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    65ny is correct about the ignition timing. A truckload of cam calls for a truckload of timing.

    You didn't say what converter is behind the 327, but I'll assume a stock one. Using a stock converter will require some ignition curve, while a looser (3000-3500) converter could allow locked out timing with no centrifugal advance.

    I always try to fix things with the least amount out of pocket, so let's proceed along that line. Get an ignition re-curve kit from Summit or wherever. Put 16 degrees of centrifugal advance in the distributor. Find a local shop with a distributor machine and set the dizzy for 16, all in by 2600-2800. Set the initial timing at the crank at 20 degrees. 20 plus 16 will give you 36 total. If the motor tries to kick back against the starter because of all the initial advance, install a momentary-off pushbutton that breaks the circuit on the wire going to the coil. Mount it on the dash or wherever you can mount it in the cabin. Push the momentary button to kill ignition while you turn the key to spin the motor. Once the motor is spinning, release the momentary pushbutton and the motor will fire. If you had a very loose converter, I would suggest locking out the centrifugal by using small tie wraps on the centrifugal weights to cinch them at zero and use 36 degrees at the crank with the momentary switch.

    This is only a stop-gap operation to get you operating with the 327 until you can either find time to change the cam in it or build up a mild-mannered 350. I wish I could have gotten to you before you laid out money for another flat tappet block. Here in Phoenix, in the last 3 weeks, I've seen two rebuildable roller long blocks on craigslist for under $200. If you put the word Vortec into the search under auto parts, you can find these motors. The ideal one to start with is the '96 to '98 5700 Vortec from a Chevy truck. That motor will have the L31 Vortec heads on it and it won't get much better than that for a starting point for a streetable 350 or 383 build. The motors I called about still had the roller lifters (re-useable), dog bones and spider. One of them was a 4-bolt block.

    I'm just including this for others on the board. DON'T EVER BUY ANOTHER FLAT TAPPET BLOCK TO START A BUILD WITH.

    FMX, do not buy heads or cam or anything else from ANYWHERE until I see pics of the pistons and you measure the piston deck height.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 05-05-2009 at 10:03 AM.

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