Thread: Affordable Piston Good For Atleast 500hp and 6500 rpm...Any Ideas??

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Heck, just run a Ford.... Then you don't have any buddies!!!!!

Bad Dave,Bad Dave!!

Hey Eric, aint nothing wrong with that 500 hp is 500 hp.

Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver

Hey Eric, aint nothing wrong with that 500 hp is 500 hp.

Yes,it is hard to argue with anyone on that.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Bad Dave,Bad Dave!!

Even when I had a real job, never saw anything on my pay stub for nice guy pay!!!!!

run an AMC wipe em all out and watch them get very angry that grannys rambler just smoked em all

you sure dont try hard enough

Originally Posted by erik erikson

To make over 500 hp out of a 350 you would need a very good hyd. roller cam or a small street mech. and a set of 195 cc CNC'D AFR heads.

as i said i am not going for the 500hp mark (just building bottom end stong enough to handle up to 500hp so i am sure it can handle what i am throwing at it) i am hoping tho to have 425-450hp...and the heads have a 170cc intake and 60cc exhuast ports...70cc chambers....and please can i get a HP estimate please????

ohhh ya eric you said my carb is goona be too big? but you needed better cam specs... here they are
adv. duration 284in 296ex
@.050" Lift 240in 246ex
@valve .507in .510ex
what you think would be my best choice?????

170cc is going to starve your engine over about 4000 RPM or something without a blower, without porting you will stay under 400 hp, that's my guess. Together with that big carb you won't get good enough vacuum and port velocity to promote the mixing of fuel and air. Exhaust port size isn't that much of an issue I would say. I guess you will be running racing fuel if your shooting at the 500hp mark. I would change the following:

700cfm carb
AFR 195 heads (or comparable, i.e. bigger Edelbrock or Brodix)
forged pistons are OK (+.100 dome if you use the 70cc heads, TRW are prob the cheapest good ones)
Might try some block rock to tighten up the bottom end even further
Get rid of hp-killers: use a small oilpump (not high volume, so get your clearances right, at high engine speeds most of the oil goes through the bypass valve anyway, even with the small pump), use an electric waterpump, solid dampener (not fluidamper)
Use a big oil pan with scrapers

What it costs most is time. In the region of 500hp I guess there's a 50hp gain to be made in accuracy of the work you put into it, i.e. portmatching, detailing and polishing of exhaust port and chamber, if not already done, detailing the oil passages. Even with the most expensive aftermarket parts you might need to match some things here and there.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Max

get a set of used camel humps for 400 bucks that dont need rebuilt

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

get a set of used camel humps for 400 bucks that dont need rebuilt

He would loose hp by going to camel humps.

not going to fight, i have this theory if it worked then it should sure as hell work now.

its easier to buy a set of old heads and fix them up one part at a time, then it is to crap out 1500 bucks. if i could crap 1500 bucks youd better belive id have a set of bad arse heads and a solid roller cam in/on my car but i cant, so i dont, the guy that did my heads let me make payments to him, one part at a time made things a whole lot easier. instead of all at once. know what i mean? jegs shoul do credit! <theyd probably go outta busisness!>