To get the most out of the answers that are given ,you need to list exact parts {which you did} and you also need to state budget{which you did } you also need to state intended use and acceptable driving manners for you.

One mans tunning nightmare engine ,may be another mans dream engine
Do you want max power ?
Max sound ?
Max speed?
Max acceleration ?
All of those non engine things come into play when ordering parts.
Soo .120 domes .035 down in the hole ,those need to match the heads you want ,will those heads accept a dome of that size and are they made for dome that shape?
You also need to know if the heads have the correct size cc for the domes you have to make the intended static compression{remember the later the intake closing point is to make the dynamic compression acceptable,the less stroke you use}If you have to have a cam with a very late intake closing point to make the dynamic compression work on pump gas,you loose alot of stroke,meaning less power,you want to use as much as the stroke as possible and not waste any by bleeding off compression with a long duraton /late intake closing point cam.
Theres no voodo or black magic needed,the heads are already dictated by the already purchased domes and the intended pump gas usage.
This info gives you the chamber size{cc} that will be needed.Second ,the rpm and cubic inches dictates the port size on the heads.Your already purchased lower end has parts good to a safe 6000 rpm give or take a few.This info tells you what you need to know for a port size.
Then based on rpm/cubic inches/static compression/port size ,now you can choose a cam to compliment that combination based on stats of your parts .
From reading your posts ,you need to do alot of reading on static compression/dynamic compression,quench and cam principals or you need to take all of the info you have and let a cam company or a member here choose one for you.
Also a point that has not been mentioned yet either is quench,you just cant open that up with a thicker gasket or a huge open chamber head and exspect it to perform well either.
Remember ,every bit a bigger cam gives you in power is taken away from the low end,3500 stall 6000 rpm redline 2500 rpm to effectivly use ,then reduce the stroke with a long cam..............sounds like trouble brewing.

With those domes ,I would look at aluminum heads,so you can use the 11 to 1 compression and not loose as much stroke,then purchase a cam according to the alu heads to get the correct pump gas dynamic compression.
Anything over 350 -375 hp with that 327 and yer just leaking in the wind, unless you get the lower end parts to support 7 to 8 thousand rpm,which you stated is out of the budgett.
The bigger you push that cam to run pump gas,the slower that engine will go on that budgett and a street converter.
If you just want burger stand noise,keep everything stock and cheap , use a comp cams thumper cam and save alot of money .
If you want max power and performance look into individual parts and not a kit or combo.
I think you are chasing those domes thru the entire engine ,trying to make em work,.120 domes are usually a racing item for race gas and require abnormal size heads on the street,making the combo complex to purchase parts for..................You would be money ahead to sell the domes ,after all they are new,and buy some good flat tops so you can use a normal selection of cheap standard performance heads,your gunna fight those .120 domes that are .035 down in the hole thru the entire build and be lucky if you can get the quench small enuff not to detonate on anything more than base timing and premium.
Unfortunatly you are not headed down the road to max performance,your headed toward a burger stand tunning nightmare.
Seriously ,you would be better off with a stock engine and a thumper cam and a 3500 rpm stall.
Most people like to learn the hard way unfortunatly,build the big cam /high stall motor for the street and then you will know what you need next time .