Thread: A solid roller in a '70 400 small block???

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Originally Posted by Sidedraft Deuce

Then He should run a Mechnical and save $400.00

No,I would like to see him run a hyd. roller cam.

The mechanical is for high rpms...........................

Originally Posted by shawnlee28

The mechanical is for high rpms...........................

Yes,I know.
He has already said he does not want a 7,000 rpm engine.

.....although my engine was blueprinted & balanced & built by a professional, it is built with cast parts; stock cast crank, stock 5.56 stock rods {but all ARP bolts, studs & forged pistons}. This is why I don't want to spin it to high. I think it would blow up with cast parts, wouldn't it? Plus it's a street car & I feel a 3000 true stall {3000 RPM is where it quits gaining RPM's when I punch it with the Trans Brake on} is already pushing the edge of 'street-able' for cruising around. 30" tall rear tires, 4:11 rear end with a Turbo 400 Trans & I'm at around 3000 RPM @ 65 MPH....
The only reason I want to go with a Solid roller is I heard they sound better than Hydraulics!!! {you know, the sound 'bling' thing ... Is this true??? If not, I'll go with the Hyd. roller.... THANKS Bill

Originally Posted by billlsbird

.....although my engine was blueprinted & balanced & built by a professional, it is built with cast parts; stock cast crank, stock 5.56 stock rods {but all ARP bolts, studs & forged pistons}. This is why I don't want to spin it to high. I think it would blow up with cast parts, wouldn't it? Plus it's a street car & I feel a 3000 true stall {3000 RPM is where it quits gaining RPM's when I punch it with the Trans Brake on} is already pushing the edge of 'street-able' for cruising around. 30" tall rear tires, 4:11 rear end with a Turbo 400 Trans & I'm at around 3000 RPM @ 65 MPH....
The only reason I want to go with a Solid roller is I heard they sound better than Hydraulics!!! {you know, the sound 'bling' thing ... Is this true??? If not, I'll go with the Hyd. roller.... THANKS Bill

The mech. roller is less money than the hyd. roller cam.
I would run a cam that lets you run a steel gear rather than the bronze gear.
I have customers that get 10,000 miles out of the bronze gear and some will only get 3,000 miles before it becomes razor sharp and puts all the metal down in the pan.

I have a Solid Street Roller they don't require a bronze gear and have a wider lobe separation than a drag racing grind. The wide lobe separation lowers the Rev rage and makes a lot of low end torque. The cast gear for the distributor is pressed on the billet cam. The cam I have In my 415 makes 14Inches of vacuum and Idles at 800 rpm.

To your original post : the reason I said to run more duration than you have currently is that will bleed off some low speed cylinder pressure witch will help with your detonation problem.
Yes they sound a lot better than a Hyd.
Yes they cost less.
Yes they make more power.
No you don't have to spin the motor past 6000 RPM that's why its called a street roller.

Originally Posted by Sidedraft Deuce

I have a Solid Street Roller they don't require a bronze gear and have a wider lobe separation than a drag racing grind. The wide lobe separation lowers the Rev rage and makes a lot of low end torque. The cast gear for the distributor is pressed on the billet cam. The cam I have In my 415 makes 14Inches of vacuum and Idles at 800 rpm.

To your original post : the reason I said to run more duration than you have currently is that will bleed off some low speed cylinder pressure witch will help with your detonation problem.
Yes they sound a lot better than a Hyd.
Yes they cost less.
Yes they make more power.
No you don't have to spin the motor past 6000 RPM that's why its called a street roller.

The wider L/S will actually make more cylinder pressure causing more of a chance of detonation.
Not all street rollers are made from a billet some are made from cast iron.

GM supplies the "Melonized" gear for around 43 bucks. It works on steel and cast cams. Have three Steel roller cam engines running for over three years with this gear in them and no failures or strange behaviors from them.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

The wider L/S will actually make more cylinder pressure causing more of a chance of detonation.
Not all street rollers are made from a billet some are made from cast iron.

The cam that I suggested will not make more low speed cylinder pressure than the cam he has now. Your nit picking what I am saying and just confusing the facts. I am just trying to help him make the right decision and your trying to prove that you know more than I. Later

Originally Posted by Sidedraft Deuce

The cam that I suggested will not make more low speed cylinder pressure than the cam he has now. Your nit picking what I am saying and just confusing the facts. I am just trying to help him make the right decision and your trying to prove that you know more than I. Later

Hey,Bud I do this for a living.
Why don't you stop making posts when you are cluless about certain things.
Anyone that builds engines knows that a wide L/S cam will build more cylinder pressure.
Why not sit back and learn a thing or two.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Hey,Bud I do this for a living.
Why don't you stop making posts when you are cluless about certain things.
Anyone that builds engines knows that a wide L/S cam will build more cylinder pressure.
Why not sit back and learn a thing or two.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

Hey,Bud I do this for a living.
Why don't you stop making posts when you are cluless about certain things.
Anyone that builds engines knows that a wide L/S cam will build more cylinder pressure.
Why not sit back and learn a thing or two.

Well you must be starving because you can't even read.

The cam he has now is: "Cam now is 230/236 @ .050 duration, .522 lift {w/ 1.6 rockers}"

The cam I recommended: "With 10:1 Compression and pump gas you will want a cam with at least 250* at .050 "

Now tell me who is the "clueless"(can't even spell) one.

Even the rookie bench/keyboard racers like you should know this one.

Where's my popcorn?

Originally Posted by Sidedraft Deuce

Well you must be starving because you can't even read.

The cam he has now is: "Cam now is 230/236 @ .050 duration, .522 lift {w/ 1.6 rockers}"

The cam I recommended: "With 10:1 Compression and pump gas you will want a cam with at least 250* at .050 "

Now tell me who is the "clueless"(can't even spell) one.

Even the rookie bench/keyboard racers like you should know this one.

My engine did not have to have a cam of that duration........................nor did I have to resort to derogitory school room name callin to get the right cam for it either..............

Originally Posted by shawnlee28

My engine did not have to have a cam of that duration........................nor did I have to resort to derogitory school room name callin to get the right cam for it either..............

I thought the same thing when he called me clueless!!