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Thread: Block-fill for thin walls?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    gassersrule_196's Avatar
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    theres a guy here who bores his 350's .80 and .100 and they dont just explode, come to think of it neither have any of the 301's ive seen

  2. #17
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    no it will be down on power from the walls moving all over the damn place i do not think any one said it could not be done. it is just not that smart

  3. #18
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
    theres a guy here who bores his 350's .80 and .100 and they dont just explode, come to think of it neither have any of the 301's ive seen
    And I have to ask again... Why would you NOT use block fill??? Such cheap insurance to keep those thin walls from moving around all it can possibly do is add performance and longevity to the engine.

    I use block fill on anything that is going to the track for the performance improvements it brings to the engine by keeping the cylinders stable.... the fact that it helps keep the engine together is just a bonus....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  4. #19
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    seems like block fill would make them run hot, ive only ever seen guys use block filler on blown motors

  5. #20
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    i ran two big block on the street with a short fill they did not run that much hotter than one with out. all the heat is at the top of the block and two inchs from the top of the deck but when you build something like this you should do a short fill
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-25-2007 at 06:12 PM.

  6. #21
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
    seems like block fill would make them run hot, ive only ever seen guys use block filler on blown motors
    Biggest problem I ever had on engine temp when drag racing was getting heat into the engine quick enough to have it a temp for launch time.... Sometimes, like in a Friday night Gamblers race with quick turn time the engine got a bit warm but never a real problem. Even had it in a couple of street engines with a small fill and no heating problem.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  7. #22
    FAYLUR's Avatar
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    The block fill sounds like a good idea. Dad had one of these motors in a 56 chevy when I was young and at the strip we would come off the line at 7000RPM but that was a early model 283 .125"over with thick walls. I would be worried sick taking this motor that high if the walls come out thinner than around .150"+ with out block fill .
    I havn't had it checked or sonic'd yet but it's amazeing what a difference you can fill in thickness reaching thru the water hole and pinching the cylinder walls between the thumb and index finger in comparison to a late 70's Ford 302 sitting 20 feet from it. The 283 feels alot thicker so they must have more meat than most other small blocks.
    "On a r-e-e-e-e-al,,,,qu-i-i-i-i-i-et night,,,,,,,,(whisper),,,,,,,, you can hear a Ford rust!!!"

  8. #23
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    ford 302 block move all over just from honing them it is not a good block to compare to
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-25-2007 at 07:23 PM.

  9. #24
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson
    And I have to ask again... Why would you NOT use block fill??? Such cheap insurance to keep those thin walls from moving around all it can possibly do is add performance and longevity to the engine.

    I use block fill on anything that is going to the track for the performance improvements it brings to the engine by keeping the cylinders stable.... the fact that it helps keep the engine together is just a bonus....
    I agree There are also different levels that you can fill to. The first stage will "help" a good drag/ street engine run. The last stage is for all out racing.
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 01-25-2007 at 07:20 PM.
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  10. #25
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
    ford 302 block move all over just from hoing them it is not a good block to compare to
    What Pat says here is very true.
    You can bolt on a water pump on the newer 5.0 blocks and pull a front cylinder out of round on a .030 overbore.

  11. #26
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    watch out erik hear will come the hate mail

  12. #27
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
    watch out erik hear will come the hate mail
    Sometimes the truth does hurt.

  13. #28
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    yes when you build a stock 302 block you need a bag of cement

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    Sometimes the truth does hurt.

    Both motors are .030" over,well the Ford 302 dropped a valve,,,so in one spot where the valve tried to escape that area is about 2' over I couldn't believe the effy(effie?) still drove about a half mile before locking up even though the largest piece of that piston that was left was about 1" square. NOW,,,,if it had been a chebby it would still be running! (might as well get the hate mail going good!)
    "On a r-e-e-e-e-al,,,,qu-i-i-i-i-i-et night,,,,,,,,(whisper),,,,,,,, you can hear a Ford rust!!!"

  15. #30
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    well i have fixed big block chebbys that have lost there lunch i do not think there is many engine that you can use the old block over them chevys are tuff

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