theres a guy here who bores his 350's .80 and .100 and they dont just explode, come to think of it neither have any of the 301's ive seen:D **)
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theres a guy here who bores his 350's .80 and .100 and they dont just explode, come to think of it neither have any of the 301's ive seen:D **)
no it will be down on power from the walls moving all over the damn place i do not think any one said it could not be done. it is just not that smart
And I have to ask again... Why would you NOT use block fill??? Such cheap insurance to keep those thin walls from moving around all it can possibly do is add performance and longevity to the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
I use block fill on anything that is going to the track for the performance improvements it brings to the engine by keeping the cylinders stable.... the fact that it helps keep the engine together is just a bonus....
seems like block fill would make them run hot, ive only ever seen guys use block filler on blown motors
i ran two big block on the street with a short fill they did not run that much hotter than one with out. all the heat is at the top of the block and two inchs from the top of the deck but when you build something like this you should do a short fill
Biggest problem I ever had on engine temp when drag racing was getting heat into the engine quick enough to have it a temp for launch time.... Sometimes, like in a Friday night Gamblers race with quick turn time the engine got a bit warm but never a real problem. Even had it in a couple of street engines with a small fill and no heating problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
The block fill sounds like a good idea. Dad had one of these motors in a 56 chevy when I was young and at the strip we would come off the line at 7000RPM but that was a early model 283 .125"over with thick walls. I would be worried sick taking this motor that high if the walls come out thinner than around .150"+ with out block fill .
I havn't had it checked or sonic'd yet but it's amazeing what a difference you can fill in thickness reaching thru the water hole and pinching the cylinder walls between the thumb and index finger in comparison to a late 70's Ford 302 sitting 20 feet from it. The 283 feels alot thicker so they must have more meat than most other small blocks.
ford 302 block move all over just from honing them it is not a good block to compare to
I agree**) There are also different levels that you can fill to. The first stage will "help" a good drag/ street engine run. The last stage is for all out racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
What Pat says here is very true.Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
You can bolt on a water pump on the newer 5.0 blocks and pull a front cylinder out of round on a .030 overbore.
watch out erik hear will come the hate mail:3dSMILE:
Sometimes the truth does hurt.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
yes when you build a stock 302 block you need a bag of cement:D
:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
Both motors are .030" over,well the Ford 302 dropped a valve,,,so in one spot where the valve tried to escape that area is about 2' over:CRY: I couldn't believe the effy(effie?) still drove about a half mile before locking up even though the largest piece of that piston that was left was about 1" square. NOW,,,,if it had been a chebby it would still be running!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: (might as well get the hate mail going good!):p :LOL:
well i have fixed big block chebbys that have lost there lunch i do not think there is many engine that you can use the old block over them chevys are tuff