Chevy 302

doesnt anyone pay attention to me?:LOL: :LOL:

yes you can use stock 302 pistons, i am using standard bore 12:5-1 trw's they are the most expensive part of the motor, 650 bucks a set usually. i use a fluiddampner not the streetdampner version. and if you making a 302 you have no business putting a 327 crank in a 283 block! its the other way around! 327 with 283 crank=302 have the good rod bolts installed and have them shotpeened <however u spell it> and use good brand new arp fasteners for the mains, rods, etc and your bottom end will be fine, i take mine up to 7-7500 every single time i drive it!.

Yes it is scattered all over the garage and basement.:LOL: The pistons that were in it are .030 283's. Measure about 3.900" with caliper, I don't have a mic that big,let the machine shop measure with accuracy. By the way,does anyone have any idea of how to identify or decode the two large letters on the front left of the block?

gassers rule,as I stated,I wasn't sure about that suffix and the motor is not a 327. I was going on memory(a bad one obviously) and had ID numbers confused. Reason is that if the suffix code is for a 327 then thats probably what it is,mine is not,I had letters in the wrong place. The HB code is not on the pad in front of the pass. cylinder head,it's in another place on the front. Thats why I said to not quote me about one code pertaining to two different motors. It is a 283. :o :o :o

those ARP fasteners you used to hold the main caps down gasser, they were studs and bolts right ? Just checking for clarity thats all.:) :)

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Originally Posted by FAYLUR

Yes it is scattered all over the garage and basement.:LOL: The pistons that were in it are .030 283's. Measure about 3.900" with caliper, I don't have a mic that big,let the machine shop measure with accuracy. By the way,does anyone have any idea of how to identify or decode the two large letters on the front left of the block?

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Do you have the block casting numbers and date codes ? we could probably double check it out at mortecs site.

With all this talk on the bottom end what is happening with the top ? Like the heads intake and carburetion ? And the most important thing of all cam selection. :D

easiest thing in the world to do, is over cam a 283

This is whats in my std. bore 283.
SUM-1106
Basic Operating RPM Range: 3,000-6,200 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 292
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 292
Advertised Duration: 292 int./292 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.488 int./0.488 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

doesnt anyone pay attention to me?:LOL: :LOL:

yes you can use stock 302 pistons, i am using standard bore 12:5-1 trw's they are the most expensive part of the motor, 650 bucks a set usually. i use a fluiddampner not the streetdampner version. and if you making a 302 you have no business putting a 327 crank in a 283 block! its the other way around! 327 with 283 crank=302 have the good rod bolts installed and have them shotpeened <however u spell it> and use good brand new arp fasteners for the mains, rods, etc and your bottom end will be fine, i take mine up to 7-7500 every single time i drive it!.

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Scooter,if you are paying $ 650 for a set of TRW pistons someone is making about an extra $ 200 a set.
At $ 500-$ 525 you can get into a set of SRP's and at $650 you could buy a set of JE pistons.
Also if you shop around you can get new 5140 I- beam rods that are stronger than the GM "pink" rods for $150-$175 with ARP bolts and they are not 40 year old rods.
Get rid of your Fluiddamper and buy a good SFI approved balancer.
The fluid filled dampers are nothing but clever marketing trick.
The ATI would be the first pick or or for less money some of the imported SFI approved balancers work very well.

Southerner,is that for me? If so I had no intentions of hijacking this thread I was just trying to add my 2cents worth before I put my foot in my mouth.
But if addressed to me,,,I have checked several times on the heads,block,and crank and it is a 283. As far as the top end I was waiting to see how thin the cyl. walls come out to determine the rest of the vehicle. If it can be street driven,maybe as far as 10 mile away without meltdown,then I'll build it very similiar to the original 67-69 motors. If not then I'll build it as a brackett car and try to get 350-400 hp out of it. Or maybe Scooter has a tunnel ram & 2 4's-or- a hilborn injectors he'll sell me?:D Oh,,,,a straight front axle,ladder bars,,,COOL:D

No, it is not just for you,;) what I was trying to point out is that you build a balanced engine package. By that I mean the top end of the engine puts out x amount of power so the bottom end had better be able to handle it. Or conversely people build a bullitproof bottom end for huge $$$$$$$$ (cubic money) and there is a weak top end sitting on top of the motor. This goes for all types and sizes of engines. But this is what the forums are for we all kick around ideas. I would not worry to much about thread hijacking, we are all guilty of doing it.:rolleyes: :)

Damn thread hijackers............just kidding I am very entertained keep it up!
Also cam advice? Car has 355 gear 26" tire 3200 convertor, team g intake 461 heads fully ported and polished. The car went 11.53 with the 12to1 383 and bfg drag radials.

Burty,with a 65 how could you not want a 302? Keep the intake and heads,cam it something like Isky's Z-40 solid lifter.511 lift,310 duration;12:5-1 pistons;I'll get my chops smacked for this, but a 513 gear;holley 650 double pumper with maybe a little aviation gas added(if available nowadays);a 4 speed trans would be nice with this setup but if you keep the auto,someone else will have to suggest the converter,,,,4000 stall maybe? The Z40 is listed for 3500-7500??? With traction (the car:whacked: ) this may keep you in the high 11's???

i cant use pink rods, they are lrg journal, i use standard 5.7's stock i beamers , and have never had one or seen one break, shot peened and new arp bolts and they are solid., isnt that how we all learn? hard to belive these old parts are better then they get credit for? i dont have the $ to buy new fancy crankshafts, h beam allum rods, new allum heads and all that i use what i got. you try finding brand new standard bore 302 12:5-1 pistons i have looked everywhere! and when i do find them i pay for them belive me ouchies! maybe im just the crazy old <young> coot who made all the old stuff work to get the win? :LOL: i guess what im trying to say is, if i had the $ id have the brand new fancy stuff, but i dont, so i dont have the fancy new stuff

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Originally Posted by erik erikson

the GM "pink" rods for $150-$175 with ARP bolts and they are not 40 year old rods.

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Same here gassers rule. As a matter of fact my ebay pistons came today.Standard size original Z28 pistons. They are in good shape for $155 shipping included from a speed shop in Canton. And yes I have bought junk off that site before but these are good. My 16th purchase from ebay but I'm calling this my last purchase of anything over $50.
But I'm the guy that just builds 'drivers' and wouldn't put big money in one even if I had a million$$$. Wellllll,,,,I might buy a 68-69 Z28 if I had that much and weld it down to a trailor:LOL:

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Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

i cant use pink rods, they are lrg journal, i use standard 5.7's stock i beamers , and have never had one or seen one break, shot peened and new arp bolts and they are solid., isnt that how we all learn? hard to belive these old parts are better then they get credit for? i dont have the $ to buy new fancy crankshafts, h beam allum rods, new allum heads and all that i use what i got. you try finding brand new standard bore 302 12:5-1 pistons i have looked everywhere! and when i do find them i pay for them belive me ouchies! maybe im just the crazy old <young> coot who made all the old stuff work to get the win? :LOL: i guess what im trying to say is, if i had the $ id have the brand new fancy stuff, but i dont, so i dont have the fancy new stuff

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You took my quote out of context.
The new rods I was refering to are a 2.0 journal size.
Buy the time you are done preping your 40 year old rods you could have brand new ones that are much stronger.