Thread: 454 build - what intake and cam ?

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Originally Posted by ceejay

Bare with me techinspector1 and work with me here. I'm grateful for your input and am trying to strike a balance here between the ideal world and the limitations I have to work with, here in Sri Lanka.

I'm not keen to go with a sleeve because this is a large bore size (by Sri Lankan standards) and the sleeving process over here even at the best facility, leave much to be desired.
The sleeve material is not ideal and the machined outer surface can not be guaranteed to be true. Leaving air pockets between the sleeve and the bore etc... I have had to deal with all these shortcomings in the past so I'm keen to avoid with this build.

BTW the deck height is stock at 9.8"

What if I bore all cylinders to use the Keith Black KB201KTD-100 or the KB203KTM-100 and zero deck the block and use the recommended felpro gasket.

The figures will be as follows.


cylinder volume 973.66
chamber vol 115
dome vol 12
gasket vol 10.5
ring land vol 0
clearance vol 0

Compression ratio 9.58:1

I'd go for it.
Pay very close attention to recommended piston to bore clearance and top-ring end gap. Also pay close attention to the pop-up and how/where it meets with the combustion chamber roof. Use clay to check. Some massaging may be necessary. Check piston to valve clearance with clay, I would want 0.120" exhaust and 0.080" intake minimum. On OVERLAP, check at 30, 20, 10, 0 degrees BTDC, 10, 20, 30 degrees ATDC.

Use this tutorial to determine pushrod length....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5is9BsH5OU

Use ONLY roller tappets. Flat tappets in a BBC are just asking for trouble.

Turn the block upside down on the engine stand. Build a little cone (shaped like an American Indian teepee) of modeling clay about an inch high and mush it down onto the oil pump pickup. Oil the clay so that it will not stick to the pan bottom......do not use PlayDoh, it will not hold its shape. Use oil-based modeling clay from a craft or hobby shop. Lay a new pan gasket in place and snug down the corner pan bolts. Take the pan back off and measure the height of the cone of clay. That will tell you how far the pickup is off the bottom of the pan. Shoot for 3/8" to 1/2". If the pan is closer than that, the pump can suck the pan bottom up against the pickup and shut off flow to the pump. If the pan is farther away than that, you may be starving the motor for oil if she's down a quart or more. Adjust for this clearance with the length/depth of the pickup tube. Cutting and welding (tigged by a professional welder) is acceptable. Use a brace.....
https://carshopinc.biz/media/catalog...I/MIL18300.jpg

Use valve springs that are recommended by the cam manufacturer. Using a bench vise, put the springs, one at a time, in the vise and crank the spring down to the assembled height, then crank 'er on down to the lift spec of the cam lobe and measure, with a feeler gauge blade, the clearance between the spring turns. You should see at least 0.010" between each of the turns for a total of ~0.050" minimum total. Once you have the assembled heads torqued to the block, just before you button up the valve covers, use a piece of small diameter solder bent so you can put it in between the rocker stud and rocker slot and turn the motor over 2 full revolutions. Have a friend hold the solder while you turn the crank. Pull the solder out and see if it is smashed or not. This will tell you if you have sufficient clearance between the rocker slot and the rocker stud at full lift. If the solder is smashed, get rockers with longer slots or modify the rockers yourself with the appropriately sized small round stone and a hand-held grinder. This operation is, of course, only for stamped steel conventional rockers. If you're using roller rockers (Recommend Crane), then ignore this advice.

This is the type of telescoping gauge that I have used in the past to set up these distances in the vise. Quick and easy once you have them set to your measurements...
http://www.handsontools.com/Central-...PIMaAh5Q8P8HAQ


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